Any tips on engine re-assembly

Discussion in 'Technical' started by gdemopesq, Apr 4, 2008.

  1. gdemopesq

    gdemopesq MOTOR CITY MAV

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    Basically I plan to build the engine and install its components in the reverse of how it tore down starting tomorrow. Any tips, like common forgotten things? Any Cautions?

    How much beer is drank during this process to maximize the results. I have been waiting 5 months for this. It will be like Christmas for a kid putting on all the new high performance parts that are nice and clean compared to the greasy slop of a motor I tore down.


    :dance:
     
  2. don graham

    don graham MCG State Rep

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    I always keep a copy of " how to build your small block ford" on hand and refer to it often. :)
     
  3. gdemopesq

    gdemopesq MOTOR CITY MAV

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    I got that book, my chiltons which is great for torque specs. and other specifications. I also took about 100 digital pictures of the motor as I was tearing it down. You think there is an ebay market for my old 2bbl carb and manifold?
     
  4. maverick1970

    maverick1970 MCG State Rep

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    Use good assembly lube

    When installing the pistons watch to make sure you don't score the crank with the rod bolts

    Make sure you stagger the ring gaps when installing the pistons
     
  5. ford84stepside

    ford84stepside Lone Wolf

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    Make sure everything is clean and you have plenty of lube and shop rags. Double wipe everything before you start putting it together, and don't skimp on the assembly lube. Everybody has their favorites, I prefer to use white lithum grease on the rod and main bearings, and on the cam and lifters. I lube the pistons and cylinders with STP or Lucas because it clings real good. As soon as oil pressure hits everything, the lithum and the STP will mix in with the oil and help protect the engine during break in.
     
  6. Mavman72

    Mavman72 Gone backwards but lookin' forward

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    1.Make sure all components are CLEAN.
    2.Have plenty of motor oil on hand for lubeing things up.
    3.Assembly lube
    4.All tools necessary for assembly.
    A) Ring compressor/ring installer unless you have very calloused finger tips to spin em on by hand.
    B) soft faced mallet/or wooden handeled hammer.(to tap pistons into bores)
    C)Torque wrench
    D) Harmonic balancer installer
    E)All gaskets/sealers(RTV and such)
    F)Assorted hand tools (duh right??)
    G) a helper is great,even if they dont know how to do what you are doing.(you can get em good and oily)you will need the extra hands for guiding the rods onto the crank).
    H) Put the cam in first.(you can guide it in from inside the crank case with your fingers)Trust me on this. Its much easier this way.
    After all that is done you can assemble the bottom end,crank bearing caps etc...
    Most importantly have a plan and all parts on hand laid out and ready to go.Check all your clearances and tolerances twice before moving on.After each sub assembly is completed.LOOK and make absolutely sure you didnt forget anything.If in doubt,check it again (even if its a pain to do)And yeah tom monroes book on small block fords is an invaluable and necessary tool.Just go slow and pay attention to the details and the literature.If you encounter anything that rubs you wrong(it probably is)Stop and ask someone.(you know were here for ya man!!) Have fun!!!
     
  7. maverick1970

    maverick1970 MCG State Rep

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    Make sure you place something on the floor to catch the drippings or you will have a big mess. I have a tray on my stand.

    Also cover the engine with a large bag when your not working on it.
     
  8. Earl Branham

    Earl Branham Certified Old Fart

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    One little thing.....have some rubber or plastic tubing to put over the rod bolts, so you don't knick the crank as the pistons go in. Good luck!
     
  9. 48fordnut

    48fordnut Member

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    be sure the pistons are on the rods right. the large radius on the rod goes to the outside of the crank. . i always torque one main at a time and turn the eng over, same for the rods. that way if one binds you can go to it. after its all done ,short block, it should not take more than 30 lbs torque to turn the eng over.good luck.
     
  10. 71gold

    71gold Frank Cooper Supporting Member

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    this is all good information....if the machine work was done correctly.

    if crank was turned...check it and make sure all rod/main journals are correct size.
    check bore and make sure the holes are...round..(had one that was bored egg shaped).
    check...all freeze plugs...to make sure they were replaced/installed correctly.
    chase... all threaded holes...
    when i have machine work done, i mark my ...block/heads/rods/crank... to make sure i get my parts back.
    ( i know, you are past this point) but may help someone else.

    a little something i learned on my last build...put antifreeze in on startup if you have A/C...

    ...it's only...nuts/bolts...enjoy (y)
    this is from someone...
    that has someone else build his...long blocks...:yup:

    ...Frank...
     
  11. mavron 70

    mavron 70 Member

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    Not a bad idea to check bearing clearance with plastigauge.....worth the effort..
     
  12. 69.5mav

    69.5mav Member

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    My #1 rule in engine assembly is NO DRINKING DURING ASSEMBLY TIME!!! Save that for when the job is done. Too many times I got sh!tfaced and second guessed myself afterward. One time I left the cap to the silicone sealer on a main cap and had to pull the pan back off. Felt like a real dumba$$
     

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