last problem I swear (brakes)

Discussion in 'Technical' started by rocker804, Apr 6, 2008.

  1. rocker804

    rocker804 Member

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    well ive learned the hard way never let an idiot work on your car :( but heres my last mavi problem.... my mastercylinder crapped out on me and i bought a new one well mr.mechanic tells me you dont need to bench bleed it (im not stupid and i know u need to) but he goes in and installs it anyway. so my question is the mster cylinder is all hooked up is there anyway i can bleed my system without having to take the cylinder off? -ty all for the help --- Rob
     
  2. Mavman72

    Mavman72 Gone backwards but lookin' forward

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    Pull it and bench bleed it.You get too much stroke from the peadal when you bleed them on the car and it can ruin the pistons.then you are back to square one.:yup:
     
  3. rocker804

    rocker804 Member

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    is there anything else i should know just incase and by the way i have all drums lol non powered
     
  4. Mavman72

    Mavman72 Gone backwards but lookin' forward

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    Pretty straight forward job, no secret mojo,you will have to bleed all 4 wheels after installation though.Not a bad thing,fresh fluid is allways a plus on these old monsters.Oops,there is one thing.The rod from the peadal to the master cyl has a clip that holds it in the piston.Dont loose it.disconnect the rod from the peadal and pull it with the master cyl.You now have a built in push rod for bench bleeding.Dont push the piston its full travel when bleeding .You only have to push it half way if that.
     
  5. rocker804

    rocker804 Member

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    and then once shes back in do i just open the little nipples behind the brakes and pump em a few times to get the air out:hmmm:
     
  6. Mavman72

    Mavman72 Gone backwards but lookin' forward

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    Get a helper to pump the peadal.Start with closest bleeder to MC.Do them one at a time.Get a lenght of vacuum hose that fits snugly over the bleeder.place other end of hose in clear container with clean(new) brake fluid in it(should contain enough to keep end of hose submerged so you can see the air bubbles.
    1.Left front
    2.Right rear
    3.Right front
    4.Left rear
    Keep MC topped off when you do this.
    1.Open bleeder/have helper step on peadal and gently push it to the floor.
    once its on the floor.Close the bleeder.Let pedal return to top of travel.
    2.Repeat till you get no air bubbles coming out of bleeder hose.
    3.do same for all other wheels.
    Thats it.You can go one step furthe by pumping till you get fresh clean fluid coming out of each bleeder(Strongly recommended)
     
  7. 71gold

    71gold Frank Cooper Supporting Member

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    power bleeding brakes

    i did a search for...bleeding...:Handshake

    ...Frank...
     
  8. Mavman72

    Mavman72 Gone backwards but lookin' forward

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    I wish I owned a power bleeder.That would be like nirvannah for me.Frank you could buy me one for my B-Day:bouncy:Ill let you borrow it:Handshake
     
  9. 71gold

    71gold Frank Cooper Supporting Member

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    i have one...at my friends shop...:whistle:

    ...Frank...
     
  10. rocker804

    rocker804 Member

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    lol i wish i had one.... if i knew what they were but TY all again ill be rippin her all apart 2morrow ::tiphat:ty:tiphat:TY:tiphat:TY!!!!
     
  11. Jamie Miles

    Jamie Miles the road warrior

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    Just wondering why you do it this way? I have always heard it is best to start with the wheel furthest from the master cylinder and work your way to the wheel closest. When I bleed the brakes I always go Right Rear, Left Rear, Right Front, Left Front. Also, why close the bleeder valve when the end of the hose is submerged in fluid? No air is going to be able to get in anyway. I have bled brakes on my own several times in the past, so it was impossible to tighten the bleeder valve before letting up on the pedal.

    Again, I'm not debating weather either way is right or wrong, just curious.
     
  12. Mavman72

    Mavman72 Gone backwards but lookin' forward

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    I just gave him common s.o.p. for the bleed pattern.I have done it all ways and unless its an ABS equipped car they all work fine however you do it.I told him to close the bleeder counting on him having a helper.Also not closing the bleeder while hose is submerged will allow any air in the bleed hose to get sucked back in to the component,can make it take a little longer some times.(better safe than sorry)And if you are alone you arent guaranteed that the hose is staying submerged unless you secure it somehow or use alot of clean brake fluid in your catch container which is now junk after your done due to contamination from the old fluid you pumped into it while bleeding.(tryin to do it as cheap as possible with out cheapin out)I just tried to make it as simple to understand and do as possible with out creating any variables he may not be prepared for or knowledgeable about.Thanks for asking Jamie:HandshakePete.
     
  13. 72CometGT

    72CometGT Member

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    Speedbleeders work well for me. Easiest way to do it by myself. Forgot to use a hose on the first caliper though and coated the wheelwell w/ brake fluid.
     
  14. Blown74

    Blown74 Member

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    bleeders

    Not to contradict someone elses opinon, but most shop manuals tell you to start at the cylinder farthest from the MC, ie - rt rear, left rear, rt frt , left frt. jmo - good luck
     

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