This one has me stumped Car pulls to the left. Not noticable untill 45+mph, and is amplified when braking. Just replaced loose tie rod end and had it aligned. No fix. Rotated the front tires to the back. No fix. Brake drum doesn NOT get overheated! Maybe that's related to my second problem: I also have a cog-wheel like vibration. It's effected by tire speed, AND engine speed. A year back I replaced the rear wheel bearings. Did not help vibration, did get rid of a whirring sound. Im thinking maybe a bearing problem on the front-left?
could be alot of things. im suprised the alinement shop didnt find the problem. my first guess would be the strut rod adjustment nuts are loose, but again the alignment shop should have found that. or mabe the uper controle arm nuts are backing off. start push and pulling on the tire with it on and off the ground and looking for any movement.
If its pulling to the left when braking..look for a problem on the rt. Check frt wheel bearings, etc also. Vibration sounds like it may be driveshaft related, maybe bad u-joints ?? Good luck
My first thought is how old was the guy doing the alignment? Do you think he has experience with anything other than R&P suspension? I was lucky enough to find an old man who knew how to use a string and tomato stake to do my alignment. He made me sit in the car while he did his thing so I didn't see everything he was doing but the "tools" he used and hear him cussing the computer alignment machines.
I fixed the pull. Left front brake shoe was half gone and too tight to begin with. Surprising the brake fluid wasn't overheating As for the vibration, how do you tell if a bearing is bad? I repacked the outer front bearing and stuck it back on. It felt fine, but again I don't exactly know how to diagnose a bad one. Ive got another pair of brake shoes sittin here so Ill check the other side here in the next couple of days. As for the rears, it occurred to me I never replaced the passenger's side. The drivers was as much fun as I could handle. I wonder how much it would cost to farm that job out?
a lot of times a...bad bearing...will mess up the race. i clean the race and look for...discoloration and if it is rough.. did you check the u-joints? ...Frank...:Handshake
U joint is good. Its only a year or so old. My mechanic is replacing the right rear bearing in the moring. $50 total... He hasn't raised his prices in 30 years or so. LOL! Big tip atleast... As for the brakes. The #$^^ thing is pulling to the left again!!! Sometimes itll pull sometimes it won't. Cold or warm. Sometimes itll pull sometimes it wont. Both front brakes have new shoes and are adjusted to about the same tension. I rebuilt the cylinder in the left brake. i thought maybe the pistons aren't returning properly, but when I took the drum off, the shoes weren't too tight... Any suggestions? Im out of ideas.
I was looking at the conversion "kits" in my Deaborn Classics catalog. Tempting to say the least. Now I just need to find someone to bank roll it
Perfect... Send me some My local junkyard thinks his crap is gold. Really though, I think Ive located the problem. Although it looked like the cylinder wasn't leaking, marks on the back of the tire say other wise. This would explain why it did so well at first, no brake fluid had gotten on the shoes... Oh well, what's $50...
