O.K., I am planning my next drive train mods. The idea is a fresh 250 I-6, aluminum head, 4bbl, plus killer shortblock, a Toploader 4 speed, 3.25 final drive ratio. My question is, I have a steel Lakewood bellhousing, will that fit in the Maverick tunnel and I have a Maverick clutch pedal assy, what is the easiest way to activate the clutch, hydraulic, cable or mechanical? The final idea for the car is a 14.50 sec quarter mile runner, and Road Atlanta Runner, (class, I don't know yet, gotta get it running first). Thanks for your suggestions, Ken
And throw a 5.0 in there insted of the I6. For what you will have to pay for the aluminum head for the I6 you could have a much healthier V-8.
I already have a Toploader 2.78 first gear, steel bellhousing and everything but the flywheel, clutch, flywheel and method for activating the clutch. But your suggestion of a T-5 is great, if someone wanted to swap a real 4 speed for a HD 5 speed 2.78 first gear, let me know. Thanks again, Ken
Cole639, You ask me a great question. Let me anwser you this way, why follow everyone else. In My Opinion, V-8's are for people that aren't interested in a challenge. What is the next thing that can be done to a V-8 that hasn't already been done? The I-6, hmmm, with the new Aluminum head and manifold, there is a new learning curve, a new challenge. I am looking at building a 1hps per cid engine. That is just the start. From a practical stand point, I won't need motor mounts, radiator, or a different exhaust. Ken
If your looking for a challenge then thats the way to go but I just thought I'd suggest a 5.0 for the sake of doing better at the track. The I6 would be very interesting but IMO the bang for the buck just isnt there.
To answer your original question...I prefer the mechanical linkage over the hydraulic or cable. I've tried all three and nothing seems to give the same feel and mechanical advantage of the mechanical linkage. To explain, the mechanical linkage feels like it has a break point and good pedal feel. Of course that is what I learned on. The cable clutch feels like it isn't as rigid as the mechanical. Thus losing some feel. And finally, and probably my least favorite is the hydraulic. No pedal feel and completely isolated from the clutch. Like I said, these are my opinions...but take it for what it's worth.
Well, after the new A/C unit and dishwasher was added to the house this week. A hot rod 250 is now on hold. Now I still can add the 4 speed trans, where can I get all the mechanical clutch linkage pieces? Thanks, Ken
It sucks when projects have to be put on hold, I will say I was looking at building my 6 too, but for me personally I just don't have the budget. I found out my 6 needs rebuilt, and looked at the cost of rebuilding to get it back to what factory hp ( real life) of about 80- 90? I was always all over the classic 6 website then saw people were putting deposits of $1000 on the new aluminum head.. Well the cost to get the HP up to over the stock HP of a 5.0 was just too much for me. I'm putting in a 5.0 just bought 2 for $220 , with the V-8 conversion pieces and the parts I need for the roller motor I bought I am estimating Just shy of $1700, that includes cost of the used motor, a new carb, used intake, new flexplate, HEI distributor , headers and exaust. I'm gonna try my current radiator, because my v-8 will be fairly mild. This doesn't include upgrading my c-4.. still looking into that. I'm thinking around 175 to 200 HP with stock cam, heads, 4bbl carb, and new intake on the Marquis roller motor. Total if I need a new Radiator and if I can get good used stuff I figure under $2000, to double my current HP. Plus I can upgrade later and be pushing 300 HP. No doubt about it getting that 6 hot rodded will be more noticed and more inventive, thats why I was looking at it too, but as strapped as I am for cash, having the admiration of others, and self satisfaction of being different for the 6 being built to the hilt, wasn't worth it to me in the end. I will say kudos to you for going for it (when you can) though.
