Fresh thread regarding Marquis Motors for Swap

fuel pump
and may as well grab the inertia switch too.(cuts off fuel in the event of an accident)
located in the trunk, driverside tail light area.(of a mustang anyway)
Other than that, I think you got it covered. I'm sure we will get someone else to chime in here soon to make sure everything has been covered.

 

The thing I am up against is this? the guy doesn't want to spend a bunch of his time
pulling stuff, so its got be easy or him to pull it, I will call him and see if he can grab any of this stuff, and hope for the best, If there was one thing you'd advise to make sure I get what would it be?

 

All of the wiring harness. This is the most important part. You can get the conputer, rails, fuel pump, etc... from a junker. But the complete harness is hard to come by sometimes.
Maybe you can go down to where the car is and pull this stuff yourself, so you know you got everything you need?

 

efi

Halebopp, the carb setup will be easier. For the added cost of installing the EFI spend your money on carbed engine upgrades. First, the grand marq intake and computer really are not designed for performance. You are better of finding a donor mustang or lincoln mark VII with an HO. The marq has a very restrictive upper and lower intake, smaller throttle body, poor flowing heads, smaller injectors and a weak camshaft. It just isn't worth much. Buy an RPM air gap intake, 600cfm carb, find a used HO roller cam on corral.net and toss a set of headers on it and go. If you can afford it upgrade the heads. You can buy HEI one wire distributors that will work well for this application. EFI is great and it is certainly a conversation piece but in this case the carb system would likely be better than the grand marq system. Trust me on this one, been there and done that. Wait until the correct donor comes along before going EFI. If you do a search on this board you will find other threads regarding this topic. Good luck.

 

Ok I think as much as I would like the EFI set up just the cost of having someone install it for me I could probably buy some of the other stuff I will need.

so EFI what application do I use to look up the parts you suggested?

RPM air gap intake ? who makes that? Who sells it? what car and yr do I look it up under?

The HEI Distributor hwo sells the one I will need and how do I look it up, I understand i need a hardened steel gear, who sells that for the HEI Distr

Any particular 600cfm Carb? again what car and year do I use to look it up any thoughts on who i can buy this stuff from at a good price

Can Use a set up like this and retain the stock cam for now, then up grade the cam later ?

One of my biggest soruces of confusion is how to look up these parts, and who is a good supplier,

 

Just hadda post I had lunch with a buddy today out at the local Casino, every now and then I do that, anyway they give out slot play money .

Ok so i am playing on the casino's money right... I play slots, I hit for $170
Promtly went to northern tools to by a 1250 pound engine stand!!

SO I now have a place to actually build this motor on, Well to strip off what I don't need and put on what I do, also still have $100 to buy an engine hoist $1000 pound one is $139.99 , so I never new they were so cheap. anyway it was a greaat day, it 9 finally feels like spring outside.. I win money I advance in my project just a little bit further !! I would like opinins on this would you buy a hoist or buy parts needed first?

 

Jegs or Summit would have the Edelbrock intake and carb. Guys is it 6901 hooker headers? Also, check Jegs or Summit for the distributor. All of these items can also be found on ebay. Also, if you go to www.corral.net you can probably convince one of those guys to virtually give you a stock HO roller cam. It really wouldn't cost much. Finally, with the extra 100 dollars you could probably find a usable set of E7 heads. Good luck.

 

Thanks EFIMAV dude So your vote would be to get parts then the hoist later

One thing though what application do I look stuff up under, 74 Mustang 302, 77 Maverick 302? 76 Marquis? Seems like I need an HEI Distrbutor for an early to mid 70's 302 application because I am replacing points with the HEI and don't have a duraspark set up. Same question how about the intake and carb ? The RPM Airgap is an edelbrock piece then?

 

the rpm airgap IS an edelbrock peice

 

Is this a viable candidate ? for a mild set up on a roller 5.0 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Nice...take-8011_W0QQitemZ180232802039QQcmdZViewItem

 

Thats what I'm running.

 

Jsut got on the corral

Someone else posted for this cam, thats the one I need to right?

what are those numbers he has posted, and what are the differences, looks like this guy who posted got very good responce. $25 shipped

WTB: STOCK H.O. 89-95 Mustang 5.0 Roller Cam
I'm looking for a 89-95 stock Mustang 5.0 roller cam

E8ZE-6250-CA

F1ZE-6250-AA

F4ZE-6250-DA

 

Ford made minor revisions to the lobe profiles over the years, but the basic lift and duration specs stayed the same. One revision was for a deeper cam retainer bolt hole. They're all, for intents and purposes identical for what you want it for.

 

When I converted a '91 mustang motor from EFI to carb, I used the intake and carb off of the '85 mustang. It was a 600 holley and an aluminum intake. All factory on the '85 mustang 5.0. I took off the whole front end of the '91 motor. I transfered on my '73 front end. Water pump, mechanical fuel pump, pulleys, power steering, dipstick, oil pan, alternator. It can all be done. I even used my '73 distributor and coil. The roller cam had no problems with my distributor. I just had to make sure that the firing order was that of the 351 firing order on my distributor. I changed over to a floor shifter. My tranny had no lock out. That was the only problem. Then I just pulled the pin on the coulnm shifter and took it out. I never changed the steering column. I do not think that you should have any problem with this conversion. I used my '73 fuel pump and I never once had a problem with fuel supply or pressure. There was more than enough fuel. The marquis motor will be the same. It will just be tamer than the H.O. mustang motor. You could always swap the cam and heads, but that does not make sense. You should just get a differen't motor instead. It would be just as easy to find a mustang motor. Don't buy two motors. That is a waste of money. The flex plate is a must. It must be balanced to your year and make of motor. Don't forget to get a shift kit for your C-4. It will need it no matter what the motor. It will make the care feel quicker as well as save your tranny. Hope this helps. Best wishes.

 

Thanks for the additional info Ryan,
Well the deal was already decided last week, he's delivering both motors saturday, I actually had some reservations about the roller motor as he had a hard time keeping it idling at first, the 84 motor started right off and ran like silk, basically I told him I I wanted the roller but leaned towards the othe rmotor simply because I wasn't sure if the 89 had issues, and it seemed I could hear a faint tick in the roller. So in the end he asked what I would give for both motors, he was asking $150 for each of them. I got them both for $220 and he will bring his cherry picker and deliver them to my garage. So I figured if the roller turned out to need major work I could go with the 84 motor , then builld the roller later. If the roller is fine then I can use the other motor as my guinea pig, 1st rebuild. and build the other motor and maybe sell it or just keep it.
Either way I thought getting 2 running motors delivered to my house, and one a roller for all for $220 was a pretty good deal.