Fresh thread regarding Marquis Motors for Swap

oh yeah and the stock rockers on a 89 5.0 are 1.5. if you want to go mech. fuel pump u can get a new timing cover from speedway motors, there 89.95 when i got mine, and its got the dipstick hole too. you gotta get a eccentric to drive the pump, i found mine in a 80 F150 motor, i think its called a eccentric.

 

All the stock Ford small block rockers are 1.6 ratio, only exception was the 90's Cobra 5.0 (1.7) and the Boss 302 (1.73) There were never 1.5's.

 

Parts needed to change fox body dual sump pan to front sump to fit Maverick
1. Front sump pan
2.Short oil pump pickup
3.Timing cover with either a hole for dipstick or flat boss that can be drilled for one
4.Dipstick and tube
5.If running a manual fuel pump, Timing cover must have boss for it, and you will need an encentric to mount on the cam to drive the fuel pump
6.Gasket set

You will need a pulley remover tool to remove the balancer. The rest of the swap is simple hand tools.
You will also have to plug the dipstick hole in the side of the block. Some have tapped the hole for a pipe plug, and some have simply plugged the hole with RTV Silicone. Do what works best for you.
While I had the timing cover off, I would check the timing chain and sprockets. If worn, it would be easier to go ahead and change them now, than wait until later and possibly have the engine jump time.

 

I have been getting different info on this motor that it is a roller, In fact it is one reason why I ended up with 2 motors, the 89 didn't run as smooth as the 84 but the 89 roller was a better motor to build. The guy basically threw in the 84 with the AOD tranny still attached. I'll find out for sure soon since the guy delivered both motors Saturday. DOn't get me wrong If it turns out to not be a roller Ion't be disappointed, they key here is I am not that worried about having he HP gains A this time if it performs better than the 6 that Ihave right now I am still ahead, In fact I am darned tempted to to look at just dropping a new intake and and a Carb on the 84 and drop the whole thing AOD and all in my Comet. It ran like silk and started off right away.

Whats wrong with HEI? I sure like how straight forward it is. Buy a Dist no control module 1 wire to mess with and decent cost.

 

Ok I gotta get my head on straight and think this all over but a couple of questions.

First , wow what a mess of wires and gadgets on these motors, I'm definately not going EFI. That being said, I know I need, of course the wiring for the starter and alternator

I want to strip off all the unecessary stuff on which ever motor I go with .

I'm taking off the Air Conditioning compressor,

With a carb set up and new intake, and yes an HEI Dist.

Besides plug wires can all of the rest of this stuff go?

In short can I strip off all the other wiring and do -dads ?

I retain my current voltage reg from the 250 right

Ok so heres where I think I am,

I can strip off the EFI set up remove the stock intake, ( the 84 has a throttle body that sits atop the motor like a carb), for now can I use that intake with a Carb set-up? If my 89 is a roller and IF I can use a carb set up on the 84 Intake can I swap that 84 onto the 89 ( if the 89 is a roller)? Remember just getting the thing in my Comet running is my priority right now I can sort out power adders after I get it all set up in my car. heck I'd throw a 2 bbl on that 84 intake if it would work,

Ok so what are my pitfalls here, what will really screw me up if I pull the wrong wiring off this motor?

Lastly this a pain in the butt question, I was dinking around on the 89 motor and found that 2 of the exaust manifold bolts on the drivers side of the motor are rusted and rounded off I sprayed with w-2 before I tried anything , but found out someone had torn those bolts up pretty good already and I cannot get a grip on them to get those bolts loosened, These bolt to the heads right, do I need to pull the heads off to get hose bolts out, Any techiniques you can suggest would be good to know.

 

PS I think I'll go Electric Fuel pump, both motors have the dip stick at the back, so gthe front covers are the same aren't they? They both have a double sump pan on them, darn

 

deep down, under all those hoses, wires and BS there is a 302 there. and from the outside its pretty much identical to any other before it

my car is getting a '91 t-bird motor but as of now its just a block and heads. im throwing a 4bbl intake and carb on top. a DSII roller cam dizzy, mech pump front cover, front sump pan and riging up some belt drives. im just doing alternater and water pump. im going to wire in the alternater as it would have been on a maverick. i wouldnt headache myself with getting the 1989 wirering in order for any of it.

 

Seems you're confused as to what a "roller motor" consists of. What we're refering to here is a factory motor with a roller cam, not roller rockers. The only factory Ford application with both were the 90's Cobra 5.0's. (maybe the 5.8 Cobra as well). What's wrong with the HEI ? Ever seen one on a Ford? Friggin thing is bigger and sticks up higher than the carb. Big red turd hoggin the view.One wire hookup? What's so special about that? Go with a Pertronix or any of the other electronic conversions for a points distributor and there's only two wires. Takes all of 1 more minute to hook up. One wire to each terminal of the coil. And from what I've heard about the HEI, if you want to run a tach with it, thats another wire to hook up and there's a chance the tach won't function properly, the fix is more wires and some sort of module to correct the problem.

 

One of the problems with the HEI is that it restricts what you can do with the motor. AC is a no and that may not matter to you but it does to some people. You end up having to have smaller air filters and that should not be a problem. The problem I have with them is that they are made in China and the company that they are generally associated with (usually Pro-Comp) spends allot of time in court for patent infringements and they are reputable for quality issues and because most things on Ebay are sold as-is it might cost you more then you realise.
http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2006/02/EditorsCorner/
http://www.msdignition.com/forum/archive/index.php?t-7110.html

 

Ok so what, I can buy say a Points distributor from a 70 Mav or mustang or what ever (just as an example), then buy a pertronix set up and drop it in and not need a control box etc?

If I went DS2 what parts do i need to buy and under what application do i look it up under? I do want to weigh my opitions, and look at cost

And , my motor has a roller cam, ok and that needs the hardened steel distributor gear right? what is the differenece between a roller cam and a regular cam.

 

I am glad you pointed this out, I still haven't made up my mind yet but I hate some of the crap they are dumping on our shores,

 

Yea, you can go to a Pertronix unit in a points distributor, no control box, just two wires to the coil from the distributor. You might also look at their distributors too and compare cost. A reman distributor runs about $55 with a core to exchange. The Pertronix I is another $60-70 and the steel gear is another $50. Might be cheaper to just buy their distributor, if they offer it with a steel cam gear. Or any of the other drop in dizzys like Crane or Accell. The roller cams are made out of steel cores. Flat tappet cams have iron cores. The distributor gear needs to match the cam material to avoid premature wear.

 

quick question.

will the 302 flexplate bolt up to the 250 tq converter?