i'm gonna try a fuel pump spring and i just got the smaller bumper to take off a 10th hopefully. it just feels starved to me in third gear, so i want to change the spring in the pump to flow at 15gph. i think it's somewhere around 8 or 9 now.also it doesnt whine like the other pumps i've heard it sounds like a grinding noise?? what the heck is that crap! it's a holley blue though so it's an easy remedy. with 12 1/2:1 roughly 187 psi in the cylinders i still want to run up more timing. maybe 44 or 46 degrees. we'll see if i can hit the 11's on wednesday i just have to be patient at the strip and change one thing at a time. eventually i'm going to replace the water pump for an electric one.
lol i got some old style world product Jr heads that have the 210cc chambers for 300 bucks because the water jacket had a crack and the guy didnt know how to fix it. CEMENT! it's a drag car. who needs water!
lol i have a video link i can post of the car at 8500 on the line and when it launches the HEI gives up.OH i really want to put some 1:7 rockers to bring the cam up to .693 but i want to know it i will sacrifice the geometry of the valvetrain doing that. will it be less stable? i saw that you use them and i was just wonderin.
yeah i really do need some more runs to see what the car will be consistently running before i can say for sure what it needs. but i've only had the car for 3 years. i bought it for my 15th birthay for 900 bucks and here we are three years later the damn thing is almost done.
remember this is my first time driving this car on the strip! i shift slowly because i didnt know if the T5 would take a bang or not. oh BTW hei distributers cant go above 6500 in gear. lammeeeee
First, get that timing back under 36 degrees (I assume the vacuum advance has been removed) Most Ford small blocks get max HP at 34 degrees. Get a 780 CFM Holley # 0-3310 or 0-4118 725 CFM Both are recommended only for track and off road use. They have vacuum secondaries so you will eliminate that 50 foot bog where you are loosing time. At 7200 you will still be in the best metering area of the carb and you won't have any problems running too much or too little fuel. Just doing these two mods should be good for .1 to .3 seconds.
Seems like your car should be good for a bunch more. mine's a junker and rons twelve oh's all day with one trip into the elevens. Yours has some hot stuff in it and just needs tuning. mid elevens are in your future. Tens are a long way off, but get after them!
I've seen Ray's "junker" and was told it was "just a stock engine" For a stock engine it sure loped a lot at idle - maybe he has a plug miss....... Ray! Nice to see your shining smile.
the vaccuum advance is on there still and at idle it is around 38 degrees but at 3000 it's about 44 degrees. i'm gonna put the 750 dominator back on it. that video was when i had the HEI now i have a msd 7al II and a pro power coil and a new billet distributor. the richmond gears calculator says 10.38 with my gears and horsepower at 6500 through the traps with 29" tires. that video was a 13 flat i got a 12.50 this time out but my problem was getting up to RPM in 3rd gear so i'm gonna try gas first. and maybe lower the shift light
I dont think you got pauls statement. It doesnt need that much timing. Remove the advance and lock the timing @34.
sorry, i dont mean to sound argumentative, i just dont understand why it needs more or less timing yet. At 12 and a half to 1 i need the timing dont I? if y'alls compression is at less, then it's not going to work on my motor right? i dont understand the physics of it right now because i dont know the numbers. i need to know what the flashpoint of 111 octane is and i need to know how long it takes to combust in 54cc chambers at that compression rate. that will help me to understand what timing i need and it will let me get EXACTLY what i need. i have this wierd thing with knowing the physics of the motor. at 34 i ran .4 slower than at 44 though. BTW i need to know what plugs to use in aluminum heads. i use autolite 94s now. is that alright? if it helps any this is what i put into and got out of the calculator on richmond gears Weight 3200 1/4 mile 10.77 HP 450 1/4 speed 121.76 RPM 6500 Gearing 461 Tire 29" 1/8 mile 6.86
Theres alot more to it than that, combustion chamber shape, piston shape. Alot of variables i cant answer most of your questions with numbers but i can say with experience with a few race engines i have never saw one like 44 degrees. When you built the engine did you make sure the balancer was reading correctly? I also see you have the same cylinder heads i run. My 11.0:1 347 likes 34 total.
yeah, i've checked it twice seince the motor was built. the last time being about 3 months ago. my dad helped me build this car and i learned everything i know from him. he dad had a pro stock car with a sheet metal intake that bob glidden designed, and a set of boss heads that he had machined in michigan by jack roush when he went up there. he ran a small block 418 went to 10200 RPM at the tree and had it at 49 degrees and when that wasnt fast enough he put a big block 488 in it that went 9200 at the tree in the 70's and 80's. it went 9.80's with the small block and 8.20's with the big block. he has been doing this for a long time and it's hard for me to trust what he says to do because.....well he's my dad and we butt heads about everything. but so far he has been right about everything that has been wrong. but i want more people's opinions simply because he cant explain the physics to me either and it bothers me to not know why it's acting like it is. my biggest question now is, does compression affect timing? if so, is it a direct correlation or iverse? would a 8 to 1 motor need the same timing as a 12 to 1 motor?
Yes, total timing and compression ratio are related. In order to make maximum cylinder pressure and to completely burn all the air/fuel mixture in the cylinder the timing must be optimized. But as was said before it has to do with combustion chamber size and shape, the cam specs, the bore, the quench area, head gasket thickness, head material (iron or aluminum), the ignition system itself, and the rpm that the engine will be operating at (that is why there are vacuum and mechanical advances in a street car). In general terms with a higher compression motor and all other things being equal timing can happen at a later stage in the compression stroke (less timing) and still burn the entire air/fuel mixture.
