well my ultimate goal is to build a streetable car(no daily driver) that can run into the 11's at least a 11.99, i made some calculations and it should take me about 5 years to save up enough money, heres what i plan to do. * i know nothing about drag racing i've only been to the dragstrip one time, i've never raced any car before. engine" roller forged 306 AFR comp 185 heads 10:1 comp ratio(pump gas) mild cam somewhere around 290 duration and 550 lift boss 750 EFI system dual plane intake 100-150HP plate Nitrous system SLP igniton 1 5/8 headers Flowmaster single chamber race mufflers Tranny" art carr C4 3500-4000 converter REAR end" 8.8 c-clip eliminator 31spline locker Suspension" RSS struts and rack and pinion 4 or 3 link in the rear Tires: drag radials or regular 10.5 slick any tips or advice will be apprecited
first off do yourself a favor and build a stroker motor it will make it so much more streetable than a 306 running the same numbers..... Lower comp ratio less camshaft etc.... and to be honest a 290 duration cam is not mild per say.....lol also I would just use the factory eeciv set up easy to tune and cheaper I suspect in the long run
Thanks i was thinking about the factory system but all the EMS are pretty expensive, i still have to do alot of research before i decide on what system to use.I met a couple of fox body guys yesterday they're going to be helping me with this project.Might even try to put a fox suspension in a mav.
Like Lance said, build you a stroker. Check out the timeslip list...I'm number 34 right now. This is all motor (347 stroker), Trickflow alum heads, with a 4 speed toploader, drag radials. I don't drive it every day but it is a street car. I drive it quite often and have put as many as 800 miles on it in one week (during Cruising The Coast). It's a lot of fun and gets lots of attention.
Don't waste your $$ on a strut front/3-4 bar rear suspension,you don't need that stuff to run 11s.Sticky tires & good old slapper bars are all you need. Carb will be much cheaper than the EFI,and more forgiving.Use a Stealth or an Air Gap intake. The 8" will live w/good axles and a spool.Go with 3.80-4.10 gears. SLP ignition?Isn't that GM?The stock Duraspark is better than most folks give it credit for. If you're gonna spray it,a 306 will get you into the low 11s.Use ARP rod bolts and ARP head studs.The sbf is notorious for blown head gaskets w/nitrous-the studs help keep'em sealed down. Run a dedicated fuel system for your nitrous system,you don't want to go lean. I ran 12.40 in a 75 4dr(and drove it everywhere) w a stock '88 5.0 w/150 shot.3500 stall,3.55s,Wieand 8011/holley 600,hedman hedders w/2.25" duals,M&H g60 racemasters,weighed 3350 w/driver.So you should be MUCH faster with your better heads/cam/lighter car(you are going 2dr right?) I don't think it'll take you 5 years to save up,have fun!
I want the car to handle as well and i'll be road racing it a bit also. i alredy have a carb car, i want to try a little EFI i'm going 8.8 since its the correct width for the wheels i'm going to be using,i ment MSD-SFI not SLP, i'm going to be using the duraspark dizzy. yep my friend has a arp SBF stud/bolt kit he's going to trade me for an old block. For the nitrous i was thinking about running the fuel line off an electric pump to a regulator that spilts it to the carb and the F side of the zex plate system. Thanks
Ok,I get the other stuff,but you left out the road race part,so that explains the front/rear suspension mods.Good luck with it!
YOu should talk to a good front end man. If you want your car to run 11s on the strip AND be able to turn corners you are going to have to make some serious compromises. The suspension for the drag strip is completely different than what you need for road racing. You are going to either give up the weight transfer that you need for the strip OR the cornering on the road race. Something else that wasn't mensioned was sub-frame connectors. You will need a "through the floor" set to make the chassis stiff enough to road race with.
I hav a "somewhat" mild build, drive it every weekend on the street and cruises and run in the high 11's w/o N2o.
im another vote for working with the stock suspension. on the front you can use double adjustable shocks that will allow you to tighten it up for handleing and losen it up for drag race. also just disconect the front sway bar end links when you go drag racing. for the rear you can use caltrax bars. you can back them off for on the street and road racing then tighten them up for drag. they use a alum. bushing that really stiffens up the leafsprings deflection during turning. a real adavantage for road racing. put double adjustable shocks on the rear and you should have a great double duty suspension. i would personaly stay with the 8". its as strong as the 8.8. Its already in the car so no fabrication. Put a posi in and if your concerned about your 28 spln axles then you can upgrade them to 31 spln axles at the time you do a posi. for disk brakes, there are alot of disk kits that fit the 8" housing ends. and if you want a wider diff to use modern mustang wheels just get some of the billet alum. 1 inch wheel spacers. this suspension and diff should be alot cheaper than your orignal plan and should take you only 3 to 4 years instead of 5
