Hello all, I did some searches, but did not find the information I was looking for...any help is much appreciated. I am installing a late model 5.0 in my Maverick, with OEM flywheel, 157 tooth and 50 oz. balance and roller pinion bearing. I have an original alum. belhousing and fork from the maverick with a 302, which was for the 157 tooth flywheel. I want to bolt up a 4-speed toploader to this and am not sure how this will all work...the later 5.0's use a diaphram clutch with cable linkage while the older 302/s used the Long or Borg & Beck with mechancial linkage. I understand the finger height is different for each type. So, my questions are: Will the stock bellhousing be OK? Will the late model needle pilot bearing be OK with the toploader? What clutch with work w/ toploader and late 5.0 flywheel? Will the early OEM 302 maverick clutch fork work? Will the stock Maverick clutch linkage work? or...do I need to go with a Hyd Clutch setup...or Hyd throwout bearing? The engine will be a stock Explorer bottem end, OEM GT-40 heads, E303 cam, new crane springs, long tube headers, 4 bbl. carb with Edelbrock alum intake, 3.55 gears, wide ratio toploader...so just a mild street hotrod, no serious horsepower to hold. Well, lots of questions, I can trail and error it out, but thought I would ask here first...I assume this is a common swap and am sure the information is some where ovious. I have seen lots of T-5 to early engine swaps, but am not finding as much toploader to later 5.0 swaps, particularry using the early bellhousing? Thanks in advance for any advice or direction to where this issue has been addressed? Sincerely, Farmall in New Mexico
The stock Toploader bell will work, the clutch must be a diaphram type though for the bolt pattern on the flywheel (the bolts that secure the pressure plate are metric threads, close to a 5/16") As far as the Mav linkage working, you may at worst, need to fab a longer clutch adjustment rod for the diaphram pressure plate. I'm using the same setup in my V8 Ranger, but with a McCleod hydro T/O bearing. The clutch/pressure plate is a Centerforce Dual Friction and is far superior to the stock Ford offerings.It's not the HP you have to worry about but the torque generated. It's been doin the job now in this 3800 lb truck for at least 5 years now, where the HD 94-95 Stang unit lasted barely a year. The roller pilot bearing will also work.
if found that its easyest to get the clutch pressure plate bolts from a ford dealership. they have a sholder on them that goes into the flywheel. ive used some bolts that a clutch shop recomended and they streched.
I am using a Centerforce diaphragm setup in my Grabber with no issues. All factory linkage and everything works fine. No issues with pedal height or clutch engagement/disengagement ....
what throwout bearing do you gents use? The 5.0 is longer than the early style, but the early style fits the early fork, I,m wondering if my own early fork early bearing combo ,with a 5.0 h.d. clutch/pressure plate is somehow mismatched. what do you think?Car has shift issues but i thought it was bad synchros.
Yep, CenterForce makes diaphram pp, disc and release bearing that bolt right. The release bearing is a special length to work with the old bellhousing and clutch linkage. That's what I'm running so I could use my old linkage and bell
dan that's my bearing...but if what barry's sayin is right , I have a mismatch.. I have the ford racing a302n clutch and press. plate but I used the early fork and throwout bearing like dans, in a converted 5.0 bellhousing as I have a t5. maybe i need to check out centerforces bearing......
Sometimes when using a converted T5 bell with old linkage you can just put a shim plate under the fork pivot to get the bearing closer to the pp. Don't remember who, but that's how one setup was I saw.
now theres an idea, It does have a 3/4 inch spacer block (homemade) under the pivot, perhaps it needs more....thanks for the replys boys , looks like I have some work to do...I made the spacer block to spec. from some mustang sites...could always rip it all out and go cable...
