Starting porting my e7 heads yesturday myself. I can see why they charge so much to port them. Kinda cool doing them myself. First i took out the hump on the exhaust and then smoothed out the top where the valve guids are.........Hell it might not make a difference in them though. I guess ill get a valve job done on them after im done porting them. I got a price for 120.00 for both...............
You're on the righ ttrack with what you're doing. On the two sets I did, I opened up the port roof and walls to match a Hedman header gasket. Only thing done to the port floor was polishing. I also blended the bowls under the intake valves and polished the chambers. Also removed any and all sharp edges.
x2 on that i just sold a set to homermav in my stock lx with the same mods to the heads it ran 13.30s at 102 with 200,000 on the engine i had soo much fun with that car brad
Eaither of you guys put bigger valves in them ? Did you all notice a difference in the set of your pants, im not going to the track (i dont think)?
I left the stock sized valves in mine. Can't give you hard numbers, but just looking at what the outcome was verses what they were to begin with tells you there's some gains to be had in what I did. I only had maybe $300 in these E7's after I got done and half that was new springs and retainers. Paid $50 for em, the valve job cost me another $125, seats were finished with a Serdi machine. I did all this 7 years ago. They're still running strong on the roller 5.0 in my 89 Ranger
just the mods listed no bigger valves the good part is with your short block you can run mid grade gas brad
Thats good to no guys. If had mixed advice doing what im doing. I have limited money so instead of buying new heads i cant afford i thought id try to do something to mine for cheap...............
cant blame you there "speed costs how fast can you afford to go" is the truth im over budget on my car already if i cant do it it most likely wont get done brad
The trick on the intake side it to have a gradual taper starting at the intake and getting smaller towards the valve. This speeds up the air velocity as it enters the head. The only reason I know this is that I have my victor jr. heads and intake at the speed shop getting done and he showed me how that all works. It's really neat.
Using the guide to direct flow into the chamber, Cleaning all casting and machining lines and blending them, and smoothing any radii and curves of sharp edges along with opening the port to match the gasket and blending it back into the port wall about 1/2 to 3/4 inch will give you 90% of any increase you will get without lots of testing with a flow bench. Don't try to make the ports bigger - unless you have extra heads lying around for spares. Once you find a water jacket the head is ruined.
be carefull!!! less is more when it comes to porting your own heads. It took me 10 sets of heads before my boss let me do a set for a customer, and i ruined at least 4 heads going too deep or tearing up a valve guide. its easy to take alot of meat off the head and get more cfm, but usually you will loose velocity, in mild/daily driver motors you dont need alot of cfm, so... dont do too much...
