I have air in my line and not enough stroke(with the pedal) to force it out, power bleeding was recomended by someone I talked to, Is this easy to do or is it a garage visit?
It's easy if you have an air compressor and adaptor plate for your master cylinder. I don't understand why you can't bleed the system with the pedal. Make sure you bleed your master cylinder first. Then with someone to help you, loosen the right rear bleed screw, have them slowly push in and hold the brake pedal. Then tighten the bleed screw and have them slowly let out the pedal. You may have to repeat this 5 or 6 times at each wheel. Keep the master cylinder topped off with fluid. Move to the left rear wheel, the right front, and finally the left front. BTW, where are you located? I'm across the river in York.
Works best IF you start on the wheel CLOSEST to the master cylinder first.........the left front, the right front, then go to the back....... that "works" the air out as you go..........IF you have the time........the best way that I have found is gravity! Leave the top off the master cylinder.........keeping it full at all times......open ALL the wheel cylinders......DO NOT pump brake pedal........it will start easing out the bleeders, starting with the left front.........when it "runs" out there with no air......shut it off.........then go to the right front........then the back...........will not have any air in lines when done this way!
gravity bleeding. I've also had really good luck with gravity bleeding. Open all the screws, fill the master cylinder and have a beer.
I've never tried the gravity thing, I'd probably get too wrapped up in the beer drinking and forget all about the brakes. I just put some of the Russell speed bleeder screws on, didn't get to try them yet. They have a check valve built in so you don't need someone to loosen and tighten the bleed screw. Open each screw about a 1/4 turn, pump the pedal a few times and close the screw.
The speed bleeders work great. Got mine from the help section at O'Riely (or equivalent ). Then because my bleeder screws were froze up I replaced the calipers and my leaker rear wheel cylinders too. I even replaced the master cylinder. Then after I did all that, I figured out the reason I had a no pedal pressure was because one of the rear brakes was WAY out of adjustment (no self-adjuster installed on it). Long story, longer process, but I learned ALOT!
Did you replace the master cylinder to cause this? You never stated why you have air in the lines. If you did and didn't properly bench bleed the cylinder before it was installed, this is why. You need to force the air out of the master cylinder. If you have an extra master cylinder cap and a compressor, a forced air bleeder is easy to make. Drill a hole in the top of the cap and solder or weld a hose fitting in the hole. You can then attach an air line there to create pressure in the cylinder on the car. Don't crank the pressure up too high, you don't need to. All you have to do then is to bleed all 4 brake lines. Be careful not to empty the cylinder while you're bleeding them. Then, you'll just force more air into the lines.
Power bleeders are nice...makes the job go faster, and one person can do it since no one has to step on the pedal. I have a power bleeder from Motive Products, and I have used it several times with great results...here is a link to their website: http://www.motiveproducts.com/
