I just had a rear disc brake conversion on my comet, and now I get a noise coming from the rear when braking and the wheels get really hot. Could a proportioning valve help this or would a power brake booster/master cylinder help?
hey mrcomet, sorry, don't know the answer to your question but I think you posted 2x by mistake. Here is the other link http://mmb.maverick.to/showthread.php?t=53468 You can click on this one and click on edit and then click delete.
You may have too much rear brake bias(get an adjustable prop valve)You may have an alignment issue with the calipers/mounts causing excessive friction which is made worse when you step on the brakes.You may have bad calipers(sticking pistons)If you are useing the factory drum brake master cyl it has a residual pressure valve built in.This may be causing the brakes in the back to not completely release causing excessive friction/heat.
I still have the drum brake master cylinder in there. Can you make any suggestions on what type or where to get one for disc brakes? Would a power booster be the best option? If so, where would I find one for a '71 Comet?
I seem to remember that the drum master cylinder will have a check valve in there that keeps partial pressure to the drums, and you don't need that for discs. My guess would be that's why you are hearing noise. For my rear disc conversion I ended up using a 1976 Corvette master cylinder. I also ended up converting to Hydroboost because the brake pedal was too hard, even with the vacuum booster: I'm not sure if the 'Vette M/C would work in your situation, but I thought I'd throw in what I did. I know other guys have made this conversion with different parts....
Here is a thread about a power brake booster that works with our cars. http://mmb.maverick.to/showthread.php?t=36934 Note the warning about the stud length. The same company should be able to set you up with the right master cylinder and block.
You guys a really ambitious. I think I'll stick with the drum brakes. Not enough of an advantage over the rear drums stopping power for me. Ah maybe I'm just too lazy. The rear disc looks really cool though. You guys can come and do mine. Love that hydro boost. I'm humbled.
Think I might go with a 4-wheel DISC brake master cylinder only (to save some funds...) Any companies out there that supply these? Part numbers would be greatly appreciated!
It was posted on here a long time ago, (and i couldn't easily find the post)... but a 87-93 Dodge pickup master cylinder is identical to a wilwood master. and lots cheaper (35 vs 125+). the only issue is that you will need adapters or to re-flair the brake lines since the newer part is metric. you will probably still want a proportioning valve so you can set the front-rear bias, most of the stopping power is in the front tires and the rears will tend to lock-up if equal power is applied to the front/rear
What I'd probably do is once again use the '76 Vette master cylinder, but go for the one designed for manual brakes. I looked it up on Rock Auto and remanufactured ones are about $30 (only around $15 if you don't count the core charge). Here are some part numbers: Dorman M36367 Cardone 101371 Raybestos MC36367 ("professional grade" and a little over $50) To use this master cylinder you'll probably have to use different flared fittings on the lines because I think they are different sizes than the Mav ones...and you'll have to make sure the rod from the brake pedal is the correct length, but it is close enough to the design of the Maverick one that it can be made to work. Yeah, not perfectly bolt on and go, but you have to expect some of that when you are adding things like rear discs to Mavericks.
