I have a 302 what should my timing be set at? I live in colorado. Also what should my points be set at?
Points: Dwell 28 to 32 degrees - 28 usually works best ..........point gap (only if you can't afford a dwell meter) .017 - .028 - .018 works fairly well. Timing should be set with the vacuum hose disconnected and the engine running at 3000 rpm - set it at 34 - 36 degrees - 34 usually works best. You can only set your timing at an idle if you know the amount of advance built into the mechanical advance of the distributor. Otherwise follow the factory spec listed in the books.
The timing is set that high? I thought it would be about 14 degrees. Also I see that you work in a tranny shop. I got a tranny from a 89 mustang and it will not move in any drive gear. It works fine in park, reverse and neutral. Any suggestions?
Pauls is telling you how to set total timing, some cant comprehend base and mechanical, So the easiest way is just set total timing, That is why he said 3000 rpm before setting.
But on some engines if you set the total at or around 34 BTDC at 3000rpm,s the car will idle too high or spark knock. Especially if they have a working vacuum advance or a rebuilt distributor. You really need to learn how to set Total timing on an engine to get it to run right. Most 302's are set at 6 BTDC from the factory. Engines that come from different parts of the country will have different wieghts and springs in the distributor. Or a different slot. A rebuilt distributer just throws everything out the window as you have no idea without looking what kind of wieghts or springs are underneath the plate. It is not that hard. Ford Muscle used to and may still have a real nice tutorial on their site called "Timing is everything" It discusses all phases of engine timing in a way most can understand it. clint
That s the reason for setting total timing at rpm, This just makes it easier for someone that doesn't understand the concept of mechanical advance. Most stock V8 Ford engines wont rattle or ping on 28 to 34 degrees total. And if it does you can back it down with the same method. The way he explained was just a simple way to take all the variables out. As far as idling to high this can be adjusted with the idle screw. Mine actually idles and starts on 40 degrees, It will see as high as 50 running down the road with no load. Given mine is all electronic with no mechanical of any kind. And if anyone ever runs a BLOWER motor soon they will agree TIMING IS EVERYTHING. And one other thing i overlooked Set the point gap first as this will have a bearing on the timing.
That is the best advice given. Too many easy ways to get rid of them not to do it. I have had an engine that when I set the timing like is being said I could not get it to idle down due to too much advance. You are saying you have all electronic advance with no mechanical? How is that done? All MSD type stuff? What kind of distributor are you running? Ever worked with that Crane dist. with the electronic advance? I bet with that blower you have all kinds of electronic controls on that thing. I'd love to catch a ride in that thing clint
Most of my electronics are Accel, which they no longer offer. But we have one car that uses the digital 7 from MSD and it works as good or better than mine. ( i actually have a Digital 7 wating to go on my car if the accel ever goes out) I do run the MSD dizzy due to its accuracy. I have never used or tuned the crane dizzy although i did just tune aBlown small chevy with the new Mallory electronic programable dizzy, It is ok i really would like for it to have a few more features than it has. If you ever around north Mississippi a ride is no problem.
