Rear end ID

The tag on my differential carries the numbers:
R-F- 9JB
7587 0004A

Can anybody decipher the numbers for me?

Thank you very much.

Bob
Milford, PA

 

Just a bump because I still need the info.
Thanks.
Bob

 

That doesn't sound right. It should be something like WDV-# See: http://www.fordification.com/rearends-ford04.htm

 

OK, OK.
Now you've done it.
From all I've seen, the numbers don't make a lot of sense.
I guess I'll have to get down and get the numbers myself.

And.....the REAL numbers are:

WER-F 9JB
2.75 87 0004A

The tag was buggered and had to be removed and straightened a bit.

From the info posted on the site Jeff gave, the following is gleaned:

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]WER-F [/FONT][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Ford Pass. '67-'74[/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Mercury '71-'73 - [/FONT][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]2.75 ratio, [/FONT][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]8 3/4 in, [/FONT][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Non Locking, [/FONT][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]28 spline, [/FONT][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Non-Removable Carrier[/FONT]

The 2.75:1 ratio explains why I see 2,000 RPM at 60 MPH. Also why it's a bit "Doggy" off the line (but it cruises quite well for an almost 80 year-old car).

Supposedly, the entire frame, suspension and driveline came out of a Torino (seems someone raised the 1933 REO body and drove another entire assembly under it). There is no engine tag and noone has been able to positively identify the 302 and "Cruise-o-matic" C4.

Getting closer but still no Chohiba (sorry Bill), I'm still trying to get more information as to what year the goodies were built. However, from what Eric provided, the 2nd week of September 1969 is probably what I needed.

The reason I'm looking for the info is some genius pulled the studs from the front rotors and replaced them with racing studs they tack-welded into place. When being inspected and the front wheels removed, it was discovered the tack-welds had broken loose and the studs fell out. The rotors must be replaced before the car will pass the safety inspection. The big questions is, what rotors are required?

Your information has helped there and I thank you for it.

For those of you wondering why I decided to go the regular registration route rather than the "Antique" route; PA has buggered the process and it will take some 8 to 10 weeks for some no-name government worker to "Approve" the title. Consequently, the remaining nice weather would be somewhat limited, which is important when dealing with a Roadster.

Again, thanks guys. Your help is greatly appreciated.

 

Best bet would be take one of the rotors to a good parts store and compare it to known Torino or Mustang or Maverick parts.... Factory parts should have a number embrossed in them somewhere, but if they were aftermarket replacements they might not.

 

That's a good idea and we tried it. Unfortunately, the rotors are so far out of print there were none available to compare them against.

They were ordered against the dimensions and dates of fitment (also supported by the info above). They are quite thick and there were only two (2) 11" possibilities (Torino/full size and Thunderbird) and hopefully the rotors ordered will fit properly. I'll know tomorrow.

If they don't fit, I'll take them back home and machine the backs flat again so we can re-install the proper studs.

I suppose a lot depends on the "Luck Genie".

More to follow.

 

Another good idea.
If I have trouble with what has been ordered, I'll get those numbers.

Thanks.

PS, I lived in Stoughton for 5 years. Short but beautiful summers.

 

The rotors ordered fit just fine and the REO is now legal. Happily, I'm done with this for a while (until I get the bug to do something else).:bananaman

Thanks to all of you that offered help with this.
It was required and greatly appreciated.

Bob