Working on a '73 Maverick, was a I6, doin a 5.0 swap. Lookin into some Hedman headers, but it seems a lot of you like the 6061(?) Hookers. Would it be possible to ditch the column shift linkages and do a cable setup? Maybe get a clutch cable from a Motorcycle and fab up some brackets so we can keep the column shifter and still have longtubes? I REALLY want to keep the interior as factory as possible on this car. Thanks! Ryan
you may be able to do something using the LOKAR or hurst shifter cable adapters, and some extra long bike cable? i have factory floor so i just disconnected the rod to the column. but my truck uses a ratchet shifter and from the shifter to the trans is just cables and a bolt on adapter.
Can someone give me some pics of some long tube headers installed? From the way it looks right now there is 0 clearance for exhaust.
Several members here have kept the column shift with 6901s. There are threads on how to do it. Have to do a search though. IIRC, it didn't involve much to mod the linkage. I think one linkage arm has to be bent or cut and rewelded at a different angle. I forgot exactly...
In another thread you were asking about the drop bracket. If you haven't figured it out yet, that is for power steering cars. The power assist ram under the car hits the headers with the stock mounting bracket on the driver's side frame. The aftermarket piece just replaces the stock mounting bracket with the ram position slightly altered to clear the tubes. It runs about 15 bux.
If you can't lift the car minimum of 3' in the air, or use a lift, the engine mounts must have the long retaining bolt removed and the engine raised to get the tubes in. SBF header tips: *Slot the bottom out of the end bolt holes on both header gaskets. *Get the header up close to the engine, and just barely start a bolt on each end of the header. No gasket. *Now slip the gasket between the header and head. Your slots will allow it to drop right down onto the end bolts you just installed. All the rest of the bolts will go through the holes now. *DO NOT TIGHTEN THE BOLTS BEYOND A THREAD OR TWO YET. *Install any/all header bolts that are behind tubes. Only a thread or two. *Now tighten the bolts under tubes gradually and equally. If you tighten any one header bolt before others, the bolts under tubes will get bound. Draw the header to the head by turning each bolt a few turns at a time. *Now you can install/tighten all the bolts that don't interfere with primary tubes. These are some things that make header install on these cars a breeze. If you don't know the tricks, it can become a nightmare.
I would advise not using the 6901's. I had nothing but trouble out of those things on my 74. I currently have a c-4 with the shift on the column. And I had to cut and re work the linkage for it to work. And on top of that the stupid things dont clear the pitman arm on the steering box.
