The other day i was messing around with my car and decided to pull the carburetor off to give it good cleaning. After i did that i put it back on and started her up and you could a loud hissing sound from the engine (like whooshing air) so i fighured the carb was bolted on wrong and as i started to unbolt it, the corner piece were the bolt fits through broke off. I was wondering how i should go about repairing it cuz i figured id just weld it back on but was told not to weld on the carb. any help on this problem would be appreciated. thanks. http://s550.photobucket.com/albums/ii411/proaxe5150/?action=view¤t=Picture002.jpg http://s550.photobucket.com/albums/ii411/proaxe5150/?action=view¤t=Picture001.jpg
Carb gasket was bad or trash was between carb and intake. Or was over-torqued. Unfortunately a new carb base or carb will have to be purchased. Did it once myself with a one barrel when my comet was a six popper. A quote Axel Rose from years back "I'd like to thank F***ing.....OOOPS"
ive got a near new 600 holley baseplate,mainbody and metering block id let go resonable it even has the ford kick down linkage.
Joe Dirt _ im interested in it if you could pm me a picture or two and what youd want for it we could make out a deal....
Another case of overtightening the base nuts. They only need to be "snug" not torqued. The biggest wrench used on this is a 1/4" drive ratchet, and then only as tight as you can exert with your wrist.
Suggestion: As the Die-cast material cannot be properly welded, I'd try a little JB-Weld and a thick shim so the bolt exerts pressure on an adjacent part of the carb base. The JB-Weld should provide enought strength to secure the bolt fastening the linkage and the thick (stepped"?) shim should exert clamping pressure to the base. If it works, great. However, you'll not be able to remove the linkage bolt later but you may get a "free-ride" from the fix.
