Here it goes. I have an automatic transmission on my Merc '71 Comet. It's located on the wheel so I guess that's a column mounted? Anyway when I begin to drive I felt a slight bump between 1st and 2nd gear. I am thinking it might be a fluid issue? Does lack of fluid make it bump like that? There are no more bumps once it goes between 2nd and 3rd, etc. I also notice that there is the #2 after 1 and D and it doesn't go to 2. The lever will not physically let me go to 2. I also know there might be a way of draining the fluid and replace the gasket and refill it with Type F fluid. Would that help? Is that something a mechanic needs to do? So I turned the car on and let it idle for a moment and looked at the AT fluid Dipstick. I am unable to get an accurate reading for some reason. When I put the dipstick in it feels like it has to turn and/or twist in order for it to seat properly. I pull it out and the tranny fluid is smeared all over. I guess I need to know if I should just start and replace the gaskets and drain and refill the fluid? Is there any way of making my transmission a hell of a lot more smoother. I feel the car move slightly when I go from park to reverse. What's the issue?
that's a lot of questions . . . so let's go step by step. The first issue you are complaining about is the "bump". I don't know what exactly you mean by that but I'm assuming that you mean there is a hard shift when it bumps to the next gear, is that right? was it doing it before? did you do anything new to the car or the engine? how long have you had the car for and how old is the tranny, has it ever been rebuilt? also, does it do this when the engine is still cold or does it do it all the time even after the car has warmed up? being able to check the fluid level in the tranny is important. You should be able to pull the dip stick out, clean it with a clean towel (no lint) and place it back inside. if you need to twist it around or whatever that's fine, once you pull it back out you may see fluid smeared all over but you should keep your eyes focused on the bottom of the dip stick and just track that up and you should see a little fluid level collecting and that should give you an idea how much fluid is in there. get back to us
A fluid and filter change may help but it sounds like your troubles may be a little more severe. The dipstick is normal (twisty). Make sure you have the engine running, pull the stick out, wipe it, put it back in all the way down and quickly take it back out again. You need to do it fairly quick to keep fluid from smearing all over it making it unreadable. If it is full, you might try the fluid change. We have a member (PaulS) that is an expert on these. You might try contacting him for better info. Do you have another Comet besides the one in your avatar? You stated you have a Comet GT but 4 door cars are not GT's.
Sorry if I was all over the place. Yes I did mean that there is a hard bump when it shifts to 1st gear. I never noticed it before. The only new thing I did was replace oil and filter and replace an alternator and some wiring. I have had the car for a little over a year. And I do not know how old the tranny is. I am assuming old. This happens all the time even when the engine is warmed up. Sorry about the Avatar. I can't find a way to change it. I do not have a GT rayzorsharp. It's a four door model. I just warmed up the engine and checked the fluid level. I guess it looks a little low. I'll fill it up and see if that does it. If not what would be my next step?
Don't give up So are you sure the timing and point on the engine are set properly? Did u disconnect any vacuum lines by mistake when you were working under the hood? Also, you mentioned you have a problem with the shifter not being able to click all the way down. I'm not sure what that could be but maybe someone else has an idea.
Timing and point? I am afraid that is jargon I don't quite understand. As for Vacuum hoses brother none of them are connected. I do not know where to start when it comes to that. I have had this car for over a year and that is one of the many repairs that is on the list that I must do. How does that affect Transmission? Maybe the intermediate and low reverse bands needs adjust?
You should have a vacuum line running from the carb/manifold down to the modulator on the transmission. Hooking that up will probably fix your shifting issues. As for not being able to shift manually into all gears, it sounds like a linkage issue. Check the linkage to the transmission. If the issue is not there, it is probably the linkage inside the transmission. You can change the fluid yourself and should do so ASAP. Remove the bolts holding the pan on but leave a few in on corner just screwed in loosely so the pan will drop some at an angle and allow the fluid to run out. Make sure you get a replacement gasket and filter. There is probably a little spring/plunger under the filter. Ensure you replace it the same way you remove it. I would drop the valve body while you are in there. Open it up and clean the crud out with brake cleaner. Install a $20 shift kit.
Sounds like a plan. Will do so tomorrow. Will let you know what my findings and results are. Thanks again everyone for the word. What is the Shift Kit for?
I would stay away from a shift kit for now.Its a great addition to the trans and you will enjoy having one in it but...You need to sort it out first,discover the cause of your problems and correct them.Then you can put in a Trans go 40-2 shift kit and have some fun.There is a vacuum line that attaches to vacuum modulator on the right side above the pan rail on the trans.(It looks like a small round cannister)with a nipple sticking out of it.The line at the engine will connect to a vacuum fitting on the intake manifold (at the rear) or the base of the carb (at the rear) Its a short rubber hose that attaches to a steel line on the fire wall.Same under the car at the trans.As for the linkage...It may be bent or out of adjustment.Or rusty and binding up.If you have long tube headers on this car...all bets are off with the column linkage.It doesnt function well with headers(if at all) and takes some inventive mods to make it work.Good luck!!
All good points.... I recommend the shiftkit because it may correct issues as well. When I put one in my '72, one of the BBs I replaced was worn down to about 30% of it original size.
I agree with ya man.But if the trans has issues (bad clutches etc...) It could make it fail quicker since it increases the fluid pressure in the trans among other things.Allways solve the problem before making modifications...thats my motto and I m stickin to it
Well i guess 1 day i should get off my butt and do a linkage" How To" for a column shifted car with tubular headers. I made my own linkage rod from stock parts and it worked great. basically looks like a hockey stick. Long slotted end and the pin end that goes into the plastic bushing at the other end. Long slot gives you fine adjustment for column shift. I used stock tranny arms and brackets. Had no problems with shifting manually or by just putting into drive. Will take measurements and draw some sketches. This is 1 arm from base of column to tranny.TTFN RON
