Is there a trick or special tool or technique required to remove a Brake push rod from a Master Cylinder? It seems that once the locking ring engages it's in there for good ...
way too funny!i was thinking about posting the same question the other day!my brake pedal sits up higher(about an inch)and was wondering how to get it out.was thinking about taking out the whole master cyl.and cutting the rod down,and rewelding.would this be ok,or no?or is there another rod that is shorter,that i could use?the master cyl.i am using is for a 74 mav,non power disc.sorry dan,didn't mean to barge in on your post.,figure i would save a little space. chuck.
No need to weld just use this ... http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/aspfiles/default_frame.asp?UID=2004041319275926 But the Power Master Cylinder doesn't have a groove to lock the pushrod in so a non-power would work better but everyone I have found also has the pushrod attached and doesn't come out! I used it to make my brake pedal the same height as my clutch pedal with a Power Master Cylinder after a disc brake conversion. I would feel more comforable locking it into a non-power master cylinder though. It does fit snug in the power M/C but doesn't lock in
Chuck; you probably have the drum brake rod in there, and pedal. I did that, and the pedal was way too high. Put in the disc brake pedal, and it get down where it is supposed to go. Earl
i did use the pedals from my old 69.5 mav.non power drums,didn't think there was a difference.the master cyl.is new,and was told to use one for a 74 non power disc mav.does anyone know how to get the rod out of the master cyl.?hey dan,you still have those pedals?
Just a little food for thought... I know someone who was driving a newly completed Drag car (63 Impala Pro Mod) At the end of his low 5 second 1/8 mile pass he found that the brake pedal was SOLID ! as in NO travel = NO brakes ! Off the end of the track he went still at VERY high speed.The car actually jumped a hill that is off the end of the track ...then went into the woods braking the tops out of a few pine trees while barrel rolling. The Man lived ...the car was brought home in 3 large peices. What caused this was ,the brake rod was not locked into the Master cylinder ...and there was no positive return stop to catch the pedal ...so when the car left the starting line the pedal moved back enough to allow the shaft to come out of the hole and become lodged against a solid object (firewall?) instead ~! Just thought I`d share that
Found this on a Mustang site discussing M/C setup ... "There is a keeper in the end of the pushrod, be careful. Put it in only once...it does not come back out."
makes you wonder that when they get traded in at the auto parts store and go in for a rebuild,how do they get them out?theres got to be a tool of some kind out there for this. chuck.
The ones I have bought already have the pushrod installed (Autozone an Advance Auto) that is why I went with the power version ... no pushrod ... NAPA lists three non-power M/C's for a 74 Disc/Drum Maverick but only one indicates it includes the pushrod ... have to go check them out. M.A.V. got me freaked out now so I want one where the rod locks in!
the one i got from autozone had the rod just laying in the box,got it for a 74 non power disc brake mav.was told this was the one i needed to avoid having the brake pedal higher than the clutch pedal....guess it didn't work.could always take it back,and tell them it's junk,and hope i get another one,that has the rod just laying in the box,then i could get that part from mustangs unlimited,or npd.
Well .. Autozone listed two non-power 74 Maverick M/C's. One indicated that the pushrod was included and one did not. Neither one was stocked so I ordered the one that didn't mention the pushrod and see what I get ...
