Yea,all the blocks were drilled in the lifter valley for the roller lifter keepers,but they were all NOT roller engines.I think only the '96 was the roller engine from the factory.It's been discussed here before,maybe someone will chime in on it.
A set of ported E7s will smoke a set of GT40s(unported of course).E7s work well with just a little work,and you can usually pick 'em up cheap(or free)from guys who think they're junk.
ME TOO!!! Very knowledgable and helpful folks here. I was hoping someone would comment on this one. Seems logical to me that 0 PSI = 1:1 (no compression) , 14.7 (round to 15) PSI = 2:1, 30 PSI= 3:1, 45 PSI=4:1, 60 PSI=5:1, 75PSI=6:1, 90 PSI = 7:1, 105 PSI - 8:1, 120 PSI = 9:1, 135 PSI = 10:1, 150 PSI = 11:1. While I'm reading as high as 155 (on two gauges) I doubt this motor has 11:1 compression. Could the heads be milled to yield 11:1?
Then maybe I was a better driver than the other guy(s)?Or my car was that much better?No,I'm not that lucky.I'll stand by my statement simply because I practically lived at the track on test/tune nights back when 5.0 Mustangs were "the" hot ticket.I've seen guys put new GT40s on the cars,and not pick up as much as I did w/the ported E7s.And my heads were home ported,by a non-pro,and were never flow tested.The ported E7s shaved 2.5 tenths off w/no other changes to the car..in the eight mile.Most GT40 guys were lucky to shave 2 tenths,if that.I'm not saying GT40s are junk by no means,but on a tight budget,the E7s do well when ported.
your test method is unscientific. I've outrun afr headed cars with my gt40 heads... i've seen a car with afr heads AND an s trim supercharger run barely what I did n/a with gt40p heads... http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Track/3553/Tech_Briefs/flowdata/castiron.html ported e7 heads are putting out at or less than gt40/gt40p heads. how much money and expense and time do you want to put into junky e7 heads when you can pick up a set of $200 gt40 heads and port those?
unless a e7 is HIGHLY and professionally ported, it will not out flow a gt40 simply for the fact that a e7 dumps in and dumps out. the gt40s ports twist in..sort of. like goes in and makes a transition to the left or right, spins in the combustion chamber and then sucks out the exhaust side in the same manner. but a comparing an afr head to a stock gt40 is like comparing a stock gt40 to an e7. PERIOD. 50% of the time, are u suggesting there are 2 different motors?
i pulled a 95 truck engine (351) and pulled the intake and it was roller. not from a lighting.... fackory 95. a friend who worked at ford told me about it so i figured i'd give it a shot. i also have a 91 ford x-cab with a 5 liter...it's roller as well. had to replace the intake gasket. i've been messing with fords since i was a kid. had literally 89 fox bodies and a number of other things. i do things by experience not by word. i research everything so i know what to look forward to. i'm doing my first mav ( thank god i have 2 other mavs. and 2 comet i can get parts from) don't mean to sound like an a**but i go by what i've learned.
agreed :Handshake seeing and hearing someone talk about it are 2 different things. but sometimes its best to listen to someone who has had more experience in something. i am a proffesional chrysler technician myself and i have quite a bit of training...yeah i know "chrysler'' lol ford is my true love dont worry, but we all know ill have a job for a while as long as chrysler contiues to build cars like they have forever. anyway, i am highly trained and have been working on everything with a motor for as long as i can remember. point is, for someone my age and with the knowledge i have, i feel the best tool i have is the ability to shut up, listen and learn from the old timers. my uncle taught me that and it has proved true 100% of the time! for instance. anyone know the trick to replacing a master cylinder WITHOUT having to bleed the brakes???? a older guy i work with showed me how just the other day. (not trying to steal thread)
Yesterday I cleaned up the cylinders on my mystery 302 with an AutoZone loaner hone. Took the block, heads, and other pieces to a machine shop this morning. Quite a bit of good news. Bores miked "marginal" but OK without a rebore. Avoided $200 charge for boring and probably cost of new pistons. (have to check valve clearance) Engine rebuilder recommended cast iron rings. Anyone have a recommendation for a brand or source? Crank and cam both checked out OK. But at least some of the lifters are frozen up. Rebuilder was showing me how to get the oil out of the lifters by squeezing in a vice. First one would not budge. Second one took a LOT of force in a big vice to squeeze the oil out. I'd like to replace them but I'm seeing prices around $200 for a set. Think I'll see how many I can free up. Anyone have any experience with that? Anyone got any good used roller lifters for an '88 302? Got a good source for new ones? I'm hoping a soaking in carb cleaner will free up most of the lifters. Wonder if there are seals inside that would be damaged by carb cleaner? Maybe should use ATF? Thanks to all the facts and opinions. I've rebuilt a few engines but never anything with a roller cam. Flat tappets were cheap last time I bought any.
your in for a surprise! u should replaced lifters, u can get oem from summit for 100 bucks, how can it be within spec if u had a ''finger felt'' ridge? should be quite a bit worn!!!
Thanks much for the tip on Summit lifters. $100 is more like I expected. I'm still going to try freeing these up but now I have a good option for new ones. On the cylinders, worst one cleaned up to .009 over. Others were .005 or less over. This good old machine shop described it as "marginal" for re-ring w/o boring. Your opinion is different, so apparently experts differ. I do appreciate all your advice :Handshakebut I think I'll just re-ring it. If I was gonna run this motor for 100K miles I'd have it bored out. No way I'll ever put 50K on it so I think it'll be OK. You gotta understand, when you're 70 years old you hesitate to buy green bananas. On the other hand, I am thinking about a "phase 2" for AOD, perf converter, traction loc 3.55, wider wheels and tires, and traction bars. If I'm wrong I can fix it in phase 2, assuming ...
Yeah, bench bleed the MC, install leaving the tube connections loose at the MC, push in the brake pedal and tighten the connections before releasing the pedal. May take several times of doing this. Saves a lot of time and fluid.
i know the feeling on the Chyslers....gotta love the 2.7's lol. agreed on the old timers...i learned everything from my uncle's when i was 5. they had to babysit me and told me well we have to go to the garage/body shop so your going to help LMAO. next thing i knew i had a da sander in my hand and wrenches (think i should shoot them now..i can't stay out from under the hood of a car). sorry for the high jacking...back to the topic.
I'm liking those E6SE forged pistons, assuming I have some valve clearance. Any idea what compression ratio I'll have with the E6SE pistons and E7TE heads? I'll measure the combustion chambers when heads are assembled. If I need to, do you think some valve reliefs could be cut into those pistons?
