Ignition switch troubles

Discussion in 'General Maverick/Comet' started by SERE Guy, Sep 12, 2009.

  1. SERE Guy

    SERE Guy Member

    Joined:
    Jan 19, 2009
    Messages:
    169
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Location:
    Fairchild AFB, WA
    Vehicle:
    '73 Mav w/ 302
    It never ends. Today I finally finished my T-5 swap, got everything bolted up and ready to go, and now I have ignition switch issues. I started the car, gave it gas, it revved, so I released the key....and it quit. I repeated this process several times, with the same results. After a few tries I determined that it is not getting spark once the key is released. It's been sitting non running for a couple of months now, while I swapped out the transmission. I went to a late model Mustang starter, but that is wired up and working just fine, so I don't think it's contributing to my problems. The wiring under the dash has been butchered almost beyond recognition by the previous owner, so it's hard to pinpoint electrical issues, but when I removed my ignition from the hole in the dash where it was jammed, the connector basically fell apart. One lead was already pulled out, another may have come unspliced, and the entire assembly (where the multiwire plug meets the back of the ignition switch) is broken. My questions are; 1-Is there anything else that could cause this issue, such as-under hood wiring, coil issues, ignition module issues (duraspark)? 2-Does anybody have a wiring diagram, or better yet, hands on experience wiring up a universal ignition switch? 3-Does anybody know how I could cut the leads off the connector and hotwire the switch, bypassing it entirely? I need to get this car moving under its own power again yesterday, and this is the only thing stopping me right now. Any help would be GREATLY appreciated.
     
  2. ford84stepside

    ford84stepside Lone Wolf

    Joined:
    Nov 25, 2004
    Messages:
    4,038
    Likes Received:
    16
    Trophy Points:
    132
    Location:
    Berry Alabama
    Vehicle:
    1947 Lincoln Zephyr Coupe
    Universal switch is easy....terminals are usually marked. One to starter solenoid, one to ignition, one to 12Volt hot all the time, some have a 4th for accessories. The one to ignition is where you put anything you want hot when the key is on, such as coil, duraspark box, turnsignals, radio, heater fan, etc.
    Your car is a 73, right? What did somebody do, bypass the column mounted switch? Only the early 69 1/2 had the switch in the dash.....
     
    Last edited: Sep 12, 2009
  3. SERE Guy

    SERE Guy Member

    Joined:
    Jan 19, 2009
    Messages:
    169
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Location:
    Fairchild AFB, WA
    Vehicle:
    '73 Mav w/ 302
    This car is so Frankensteined I have no idea what happened. The column I have doesn't have an ignition switch (nor does it appear it ever did). It's not one of the 69.5 style on the dash tray either (I know, I had one in my first Mav). This is what appears to be a factory switch, jammed into a hole that was crudely cut into the dash, next to where an oil pressure gauge was installed in the same manner. It's sad really, but I've already got a new dash, restored and ready for install. If you look below the switch, you can see a small hint of the wiring disaster I'm working with. Good to here I can just wire in the switch independently. I was afraid I would have to splice it into the existing dash harness (whats left of it). When it comes time to fix the wiring I have a full aftermarket harness ready to go in. It's beautiful.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    ^Ain't it pretty.
     
    Last edited: Sep 12, 2009
  4. darren

    darren Member

    Joined:
    Jan 5, 2009
    Messages:
    4,852
    Likes Received:
    45
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    East of Dave
    Vehicle:
    72 302 Maverick
    Sounds like you have lost power on the ignition feed to the coil. Turn the key on and check the pos coil terminal for power.
    My last Mav had the dash switch but in the bracket that mounts under dash. If the switch has spade terminals you can get away with using female spade crimp connectors to replace the factory ignition plug. If you have time I would solder the crimp connectors.
     
    Last edited: Sep 12, 2009
  5. SERE Guy

    SERE Guy Member

    Joined:
    Jan 19, 2009
    Messages:
    169
    Likes Received:
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Location:
    Fairchild AFB, WA
    Vehicle:
    '73 Mav w/ 302
    Thanks, that's exactly the check I was looking for. I had my hood off and my test light in hand trying to make my brain figure out how to check the problem. Unfortunately it was already too fried from pulling the trans, modifying the flywheel, replacing the flywheel, replacing the the clutch, reinstalling the trans, reinstalling the driveshaft, pulling the harmonic balancer, installing the harmonic balancer, getting the installer stuck, pulling the harmonic balancer again, re-installing the harmonic balancer, rolling the car out of the garage, hitting the gas, breaking the throttle cable, replacing the throttle cable, and pulling the ignition out of the dash to figure it out. All in about 6hours.:rofl2:
     
  6. Earl Branham

    Earl Branham Certified Old Fart

    Joined:
    Mar 9, 2002
    Messages:
    6,367
    Likes Received:
    201
    Trophy Points:
    218
    Garage:
    1
    Location:
    Lugoff, SC
    Vehicle:
    '69.5 Maverick 302, T-5, Grabber Green
    I had that problem a few weeks ago. I had a bad resistor wire that supplies power to the coil. If your car had points at one time, it has one. Check that and see if it is bad or open. Good luck!
     

Share This Page