http://www.jegs.com/i/Comp+Cams/249/170634/10002/-1 Comp Cams Fast Racing Wide-Band Analog A/F Gauge Kit. $210. It appears to have sensor, bung, cable, and gauge. It is analog, which is good in that it shows a wider variety of ratios (most show only 13-15 or so, and some only tell you Lean or Rich, but not by how much). It would be cool to have a digital readout, but not for the extra money. I am open to suggestions. Yeas or Nays, pros or cons, etc.
I like it (if it is accurate). I think it could be good for the track, especially. Of course you'd have to look at both it and the track while running WFO.
Stand alone gauges are pretty and will get you in the ball park. I guess it all depends on what you want to do. I prefer the LM-1. it's a digital unit with 6 channel data logging and can display both A/F and Lambda readings in real time. Very helpful for seeing the entire fuel curve after a pass. With the additives in todays fuels, plug reading can be hit or miss. And yes, this is what I use, and it's portable. http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/lm1.php
The closest match to that Innovate LM-1 comes out to $400!!! I am not a top end racer. I just want to be able to beat that 89 mustang at the 1/8 track without spitting and sputtering. I also want to be able to cruise at various speeds without a miss. I just need a tool that tells me what my mix is at various rpms and loads. I was hoping for something in the $100-150 range, but the best I can find to fit my needs is closer to $200. I dont want to spend $400. If I can help it.
check out the PLX kits also NGK makes a nice wideband kit both are digital and pretty compact I had a plx m300 for years and loved it. both are in the low 200's
Bryant sent me this link a while back and we are thinking of putting this in my car . . . might be nice option for you . . . http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/-c-23.html?osCsid=ee31914b815cc78f31432d72de7bedf3
honestly I like the look of the one you posted more but I figure this might be a little more accurate.
all this sounds good...but after i gathered all that info, i would have to learn what it means and what and how to correct something if it was wrong... ... features two analog outputs to connect to analog gauges, dyno computers, ECUs, piggyback controllers, and other devices with analog inputs. Analog output 1 comes setup from the factory ready for narrowband simulation; analog output 2 is configured as 1 volt = 10 AFR (.6 lambda) and 2 volts = 20 AFR (1.3 lambda). With the provided LM Programmer software these analog outputs may also be configured by the user. The LM-1 is available in various kit configurations: i will stick with my $100 Hr. Dyno Man...He comes with it and does any corrections to the carb/timming that needs to be done. he has pulled my carb as many as 3 times to change jets, metering plates and resize air bleeds. that and 3-4 pulls for my $100... ......
Closest Dyno man is a good hour drive away. I guess that is not a problem. But I mess with stuff so often, it would be nice if I can do it all myself after any upgrades. Plus I would like to be able to learn to do it myself. And maybe pick up a little knowledge along the way.
As long as its a wide band there is nothing wrong with any of them, However it is hard to watch any of them especially at wot. Also you probably wont be able to see the hole your pump shot is leaving or not. The ones that data log Can SEE THINGS THE NAKED EYE CANT, (sorry hit cap lock) But any wide band is better than none. I say get what you can afford and work from there.
here is a really nice article . . . I can see how the data logging can be helpful: http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2006/06/Innovate/
I'm with Frank on this one guys. I deal with this type of technology for a living and have a ton of training and experience to be able to understand it and fix it properly. Even though this data recorder is pretty basic by todays standards you still have to have the ability look at the data and know what to change to correct it. Thats fine for myself, or Rick who must have the experience to tune it properly. For the average car guy though I think you'd be hard pressed to beat a 100 bucks for a dyno and the experience/labor of the tuner. Hell I'd spend a 100 to have it done if I trusted the operator. I could put together an air/fuel monitor and tune if I had to but for a hundred bucks its not worth my time. I'd run it on the dyno and get it tuned and get some HP numbers at the same time. Good deal.
Only on this board, can someone ask about a simple gauge, and be told they need to get their car dyoned.
Yeah... I'll stick with my vacuum gauge, seat of the pants dyno (and I am a picky bastard) and checking plugs. Unless you're racing or have money to burn I don't see this being of enough value to bother with on a street car.
