Mechanical fuel pump needed . . .

Discussion in 'Technical' started by mashori, Oct 15, 2009.

  1. mashori

    mashori Member

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    Getting ready to install nitrous on the stock 302 and need some recommendations as to which mechanical fuel pump to get.

    I would like to use it on this engine and later on hopefully on the 331 that I'm building which is gonna have a supercharger on it.

    I need to figure out which flow rate and what PSI I need.
     
  2. PaulS

    PaulS Member extrordiare

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    My advice is to run a separate electric pump for the nitrous system.
    Regulate it to the pressure that your nitrous needs and you won't have problems with burnt pistons.
     
  3. mashori

    mashori Member

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    if I need something for the supercahrger, can I just go with a mechanical, would it be sufficient?
     
  4. Blown 5.0

    Blown 5.0 Hooked on BOOST MEMBER

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    X2 what Pauls said. You need a separate fuel system if you gonna be serious with N20. And preferably a return style system, As if you dead head when the nitrous is first activated it will be rich due to the dead head pressure. There are several good mechanical pumps out there, they just ain't cheap. I would recommend one with no less than 110 gph. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-1725/
    That pump is the minimum i would recommend, I ran one of these pumps (actually several of these pumps) for several years. They just don't last very long is the only draw back. I now run a BG 220 gph pump. This will be the next pump i get, http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RPU-1701/ But this pump requires a regulator as well as a return system. I prefer a mechanical pump due to shall i say, Giving the engine what it needs without running wide open all the time (electric pump, Guess I'm still ole school on this one) And besides if you have a electric pump and mechanical you will always be able to make it home if one quits. ( been there). And you can get the bottom feed kit for the edelbrock if space is limited as on my car. Here is one other thing i recommend for the N20 system, I wouldnt leave home without one. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NOS-15670NOS/
     
    Last edited: Nov 10, 2009
  5. my70mav

    my70mav Member

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    when i put the nitrous to to my engine i plan to run a 1 gallon tank full of 110 under the hood with a separate holley blue and bypass regulator.i plan to have the fuel pump turn on when i arm the system,also a fuel pressure switch.eh, maybe i am paranoid.for the engine i run a holley red.
     
  6. Bryant

    Bryant forgot more than learned

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    the blue flows more than the red pump. i cant see nitrous needing more fuel volume than the motor. unless your running a 300 hp shot or biger. also when the motor is accelerateing on nitrous it uses more fuel from the carb at the same time. i would sugest useing a blue on both systems.
     
  7. bmcdaniel

    bmcdaniel Senile Member

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    Guys have been running blowers on cars longer than they've been running electric pumps...
     
  8. mashori

    mashori Member

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    I couldn't find a legitimate reason not to use a mechanical pump . . . I was wondering if anyone has any info or advice on this particular Holley mechanical pump http://www.holley.com/12-289-25.asp

    About $250 which is a lot but it's rebuildable and I don't need a pressure regulator which is nice.
     
  9. sierra grabber

    sierra grabber Certifiable

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    did you find a rebuild kit for that one to rebuild it? im not seeing it, and if that is not available get something else....if you have could you post a link?
     
  10. mashori

    mashori Member

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    why would I need the rebuild kit? I will be purchasing new. Unless you mean for future, when I may need to rebuild it? I'll look and see what I'll find.
     
  11. Bryant

    Bryant forgot more than learned

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  12. sierra grabber

    sierra grabber Certifiable

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    looking at all of these makes me want to switch to electric. the only one i dont see with that crappy style diaphragm is the $300 one blown posted. so far the one i have is the second one of that style and the last one started leaking out the side of where the diaphragm is, in a stream. the new\replacement is starting to show signs of leakage now. both have only been run for a very few miles as opposed to the one that came from the factory having run over 200k. at least with the electrics i can set them up out of the engine compartment to not spray gas everywhere >(
     
  13. mashori

    mashori Member

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    cool Bryant, thanks, looks like I'll be around $200 with that one and the fuel regulator.
     

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