Appropriate stall converter

Discussion in 'Technical' started by 1971maverick, May 17, 2004.

  1. 1971maverick

    1971maverick (re)Fab Mav

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    Hello gang,

    I'm trying to build a zippy grocery getter out of my 71 Maverick. So far I have rebuilt the original 302 block using the Edelbrock Performer series upgrades listed on thier 367 hp dyno testing pages.

    I used Heddman Hedders and had to remove the power steering. I heard there may be a manual steering box that helps out some. Any info?

    Somebody told me that the rebuilt engine will burn up my stock C4 now unless I get a 2500 stall converter. Is that true? What is a good coverter for my application?

    I also heard a limited slip from a Torino might bolt up?

    That should keep me busy (broke) for a while...:)
     
  2. Mercurycruizers

    Mercurycruizers David (Coop) Cooper

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    Depends on if you are trying for low end tork, or top end speed. I built mine for low end tork, put a shift kit in the C-4 with a 2500 rpm converter. Also replaced the stock 2.79 gears in the rearend with 3.55 gears. That set up will definitely get you to the grocery store in a hurry. LOL
     
  3. Rick Book

    Rick Book Member

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    IMO, find yourself a good converter builder near you. If he's any good, he'll 'interview' you and the car's intent, horsepower, weight, cam, etc., and will build to suit.

    The reason for a local shop is the shipping cost will eat you up if you decide to adjust the stall (typical for performance apps). Most good performance converter guys will give you one freebie adjustment (if you so choose).

    The converter is only part of the puzzle. The C4, when built right, will take double the hp/torque you have.

    Just an opionionated opinion.


    Gluck,

    Rick
     
  4. daydreamer

    daydreamer Mavmenace

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    torque converter

    Would someone tell me where to find the Edelbrock info concerning the build up pages. Didnt know they existed. THKS Ron
     
  5. Mavaholic

    Mavaholic Growing older but not up!

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    The manual boxes have a higher numerical ratio so it takes less effort to steer. However there is less of a sporty feel IMO. I've been running power boxes with manual linkage. Personnelly, I dont see where there is that much effort.

    I seriously doubt any Torino came with an 8" Tracklock. Most high performance models had 9". If someone put a limited slip in a Torino that had an 8", the center section will bolt up in your car. THe axle housing whether 8 or 9", would have to be shortened to fit in.
     
  6. n2omaverick

    n2omaverick Member

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    gears converters they are all the same ..... NOT

    Match your cam to your converter, a higher stall is more likely to wipe out that c4 due to heat than the extra hp from your 5.0. Your dealing with a 2500 pound car so you dont need a ton of gear to get her going, I recomend a 3.55 or a 3.80 both avail. from DTS. as far as finding a center section I always look for mustang II cobras, they had track locks (noted on the dif tag with a "L" between the gear ratio, The tag from the last mustang II rear that Igrabbed read 3 L 55 indicating a 3.55 posi. now for the 3.80 gears (which are a bit steep unless you run a 27" tall tire) I have only found in the flat front vans some refer to them as falcon vans I forget the true name of them. good luck. FYI A budy of mine picked up a 72 v8 car in pretty decent shape, we did a efi conversion on it and stuck a 94 5.0 out of a mustang complete mass air meter to oil pan and the aod in his maverick. I put a set of 3.80 gears in it with a $25 mini spool, and a 125 hp power shot of NOS, this damn thing went 11.81 @ 119mph I did put a e303 cam in the motor but other than that its a stock 5,0
     

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