sounds like your getting the bugs out, CONGRATS! BTW, what valve cover gaskets are those? i need some thin rubber ones like that.....
Lock Tite will not hold if you don't clean every thing with starting fluid or brake clean. Could you use a nylon insert locking not.
I will be shooting Gun Scrubber into the holes and acetone on the bolts. Blowing it all out with air. Any suggestions from anyone on if I should use the Red (high strength) lock-tite, or would blue be plenty strong. I am leaning toward blue, since the red sometimes needs to be heated to break it loose. And all I am trying to do is keep these things from vibrating loose.
In the engine books I have been looking at I couldn't find locktite being mentioned. But you know how every engine builder has their tricks to make things last. I'd bet on the vibration, the way you described that vibration it sounds pretty narly.
Yes, that vibration was a killer. I have no idea what else I will find loose over the next few months. My wife semi-jokingly said that the driver's side of the car will likely fall off. It seems like the vibrations focused on the driver side only. Dash on driver side, driver intake rockers, etc. Oh, thanks on the blue suggestion. (posted at the exact same time)
i assemble all my diffes with locktite. i use just a drop of it on any bolt or nut in the diff. i use red on bolts that are 3/8s or bigger and blue on bolts that are 1/4 or smaller. just a drop is all you need. when you cover the bolt with red or blue it can cause problems when you dissasemble. a drop will do you just fine.
When loc-tite is heated to 200 F it loses its grip. Red or blue - the instructions tell you to heat it to 200F to get a bolt out after using the red loc-tite. I would use loc-tite 518 flange sealant. It remains ductile but won't let that bolt back out unless you get your head over 350F.
Thanks for chiming in. I just finished up using lock-tite blue. If that lock-tite lets loose, then I will have the opportunity to do it all over again.