I can get an O2 regulator gauge for $11 at the hardware store, and was wondering how high pressures are in the nitrous bottle.
Dont use a cheap gauge cause if its off and your pressure is too high bad things will happen, i keep my bottle at 1150psi,and purge it down to about 950-975
If it takes 3000 PSI to pop the blow off valve then...3000 PSI. Most nitrous users pre heat the bottle to get the pressure up to1000 to1200 PSI so as to have a solid 950 to 1000 PSI for the hit when they pull the pin. Scott you can buy a bottle blanket to heat the bottle if you are concerned with operating pressures.
I was more concerned with operating pressures, more than blow-off pressure. I thought that 3000psi was a bit high. I just wanted to make sure a 1500 psi gauge would work for this bottle.
As long as you buy a good guage that reads accurately (good ones do) 1500PSI should be fine.The blow off is simply a safety feature to keep the bottle from exploding should the car be on fire and bottle gets cooked.Better to pop the valve and controll the release of gas/pressure than to let it rupture the bottle violently.
I usually run my pressure at 1100, This is where my fuel and nitrous mixture are correct. The blow off as stated earlier is only to keep the bottle from exploding. Hopefully you will never need it, Because once it blows it will empty the bottle, Then the bottle will need re certified. (i wouldn't use it anymore even if it was re certified) But MOST (not all) systems is set up to run on 900 psi with 5 to 5 1/2 psi fuel pressure. (they set them up rich to keep folks from toasting a motor) Temperature of the bottle regulates pressure as you will find out. I keep mine in the shop fridge in the summer and with a full bottle mine stays around 300 psi. That's why you should NEVER leave the bottle in the trunk during the hot of the summer. As it don't take long for a full or slightly over full bottle to reach excessive pressure. And NEVER leave the bottle hooked up and turned on. As if a solenoid leaks, And the motor fills with N20 and you are unaware of this it could go Then you will have to up the mess. Or this could happen http://www.theturboforums.com/smf/index.php?topic=117747.0
I am not going to do it. I have a shopping list with a couple other switches (one that flips off the n2o when fuel pressure dips, window, etc.) along with a decent gauge.
i run a widow swith and its ok. it the first time ive used the widow switch on a nos system and have it turning on at 3000. now my conveter locks up at 2500 rpm. the time to get to 3000 rpm seems like an eternity. i realize on the other cars that ive squeezed on ive probly been hiting it much earlyer than 3000 rpm. i dont have a lower pill for the the window switch and feel that im leaving alot of time on the table. as for the fuel pressure switch i was going to do that but talked to alot of people and they said that they could never get it to work right. the pressure drops when you hit the juice and then the regulator reacts to bring it back. this pressure drop has a tendancy to turn off the juice and then the pressure comes back and the system turns back on and causes the whole system to surge. the recomendation i got was to make sure your fuel system is up to the job and to flow test the plate regularly to make sure the fuel system can maintain the fuel pressure.
I run a pressure switch, Wouldn't run without one. I to had problems with the switch trying to turn on and off on launch. But what i found was the switch was reacting to G-Forces. To fix the problem i mounted the switch facing REARWARD, Problem solved and switch will still shut off if fuel pressure drops below 4 psi.
