Were thinking of trading our white maverick for a full race car

What does everyone think , my son is ready to move up to a fast car ,shouldnt we be able to get a fast racecar for our maverick, that looks good also....

 

I honetly don't know. What do you consider fast

 

the 351 you say you have in the mverick should make it pretty dang fast if you built and tuned it right......

 

Personally, I'd keep the Mav...there's something to be said about not having a "cookie cutter" car when you roll through the gates. Sure, you can get a "fast" Mustang, Camaro, Nova...but nobody will remember it because there are so many of them. Now, 10 years from now, if you run into a kid who sees your white Mav making passes...I bet he remembers the car lol. I've had fast cookie cutter cars in the past...and the Mav is by far, the most fun I've had at the track in years.

Just my 2 cents...

 

Assuming your a ford only guy, the bang for the buck platform is the fox body 'stang and there are plenty of race ready ones for sale. However, a turnkey racecar that will run say 10s is going to be 10 grand minimum unless you get one of those famous "deals" or you get a wore out car. Lots of money into building a racecar right. Do some window shopping for what ever you have in mind, fox body or not, then ... Ask yourself what you can get for your maverick.

I hope ya buld up the mav, they make good racecars too

 

Curious to know what you mean when you said "while looking good also"?

Do you want a better looking car that people will want to surround and look and look and look and stare as well? Or do you just want a really really really fast and speedy car?

If it's the latter, just build up a stronger motor for the Mav. It's not a heavy car to begin with and should fly down the track very easily compared to heavier cars. If you want to just have the former, I say go for whatever you think will get you the most stares.

It's your car and your choices and I support whatever you want to do. Good luck!

 

well the thing is ours runs 11.70s now in the 1/4 , and we dont want to cut it and add a cage and take out the stock interior , were getting to the point of being serious racers , my son is working on 3 time class champion in a row, in his class, we want a 9 sec car , if we added some heads to this it would run high 10s now, but wouldnt be legal,we just got back from the track tonight ,and was just launching it and running to the 330 ft mark , so we wouldnt get flagged for being to fast , we have been running on 2 barrels , we hooked up the 4 barrels , went 1.52 60ft with a 4.81 330 ft , havent figured it out in the 1/8th but sure its under the 7.50 cutoff for no cage, had the wheels a ft and a 1/2 in the air the starter said

 

I say cage it and stroke it. Who wants just another mustang or camaro. Show up in class with a full caged mav running 9 sec.

 

yea thats what i should do , but id have to put a 9 inch in it , and im sure the leafs wouldnt hook with alot more power, and then id want a 12 point cage , id have 10,000 more easy in it to get it where id want it, then i might even have to like you said stroke it , 408 oh yea baby ...it would run low 9s easy then

 

its easy to get leaf springs to take high power check out calverracing.com caltrax bars. they have alot of cars runnig 8s in the 1/4. on them. you should be able to cage the car to leagle for 9 sec runs for under 3 grand.

 

I would say your current car is about ideal for brackets. Its plenty fast enough looks good and is probaly pretty low maintance. If you were guessing what do you think it would run all out. I believe a 6pt cage will certify to 10.00 in the 1/4. With one of those you wouldn't have to do anything that is not reversible at a later date.

 

Don`want to get your thread too far off topic ,but Id like to know what the combo is on your car as it currently is. Those are some impressive times to be running with the 4 bl. disconnected.

 

Personally, if I were in your shoes I would find a basket case Maverick roller and start on a new back halved or tube frame car while still running the one you have.

Back in the late 90's a good friend of mine asked me to run his new (to him) '68 Pontiac Firebird race car because he broke his arm at work and didn't want to lose out on the points by missing any races.

I ran it twice to dial it in, and won the first round race. On the second round race, the right side mount for the 4 link, that passed inspection mind you, ripped off and sent me straight into the wall. No one was hurt, but the car was almost wrecked beyond repair. When we had the rest of the welds checked, very few passed. After that, it was completely gutted and a Chris Alston tube frame & cage took the place of the sub par one that was under it. Now it's a safe & reliable car that has had no problems what so ever since the complete rebuild.

So, my question is how much is it worth to take a chance on a serious injury or possibly death?

If you build it your self or TRUST who built it, you know what you're running.

If you just buy or trade for one you don't know anything about, it might look ok but could seriously hurt you in a blink of an eye.

I'm sure there are good cars being sold out there, but there are questionable ones too.

Just giving you something to think about,
-Scott H.

 

thanks for the info from everyone , it gives us some stuff to think about , the idea thing would be to have a full race maverick , i love this car alot , 1 of the problems we have is now that were in the low 1.50s short times we cant keep the fuel around the pickup , i know i can put a cell in it but i love having the stock tank , i looked into sumping it but it was hanging so low to make it work i dont like seeing stuff hanging under the car , and we got a 8 inch rearend in it still, so need to do changes there also,we weighted it last week it weighted 2800 on the nose with a 1/2 tank of fuel and no driver in it ,and if anyone wants to know our combo , ill let it be known , its a 30 over 351 w , with 9 to 1 comp.,it has been balenced , but has stock rods with arp bolts and a eagel crank cast unit, cost 199.00 ,has a .520 lift ,hyd cam ,it has .245 dur.,we have a rev maxx 4000 stall that picked us up 2 tenths over the dacco unit 4500 we had before,it has a c4 with a shift lit , 4.11 gear with a mini spool,28x10x15 slicks for the 1.53 short times, and bf goodrich drag radials, for the 1.60s short times with 2 barrels running ,they are 275/60/15 ,we run 15x8 rims with 4 1/2 back spacing,we have a victor jr intake, with a 750 carb on e85,full interior,with 3 inch exhaust with 1 chamber flowmasters, to the rearend , the headers are some we bought at a swap meet for a 70 cougar ,i think there 1 5/8th tubes,we run the leafs unstraped ,and with lakewood lift bars ,we are going to put 3 way shocks on the front soon,and back but have stock 1s right now,it stops pulling at about 5000 rpm , we cant keep fuel pressure in it ,and i dont want to slow it down ,so thats why asking what everyone thought

 

Just Weld or put a 5/8ths 90 degree bulk head fitting in the lowest part of the fuel tank. This will work good enough to run low 9's with just a holley blue pump. 1.30 sixty foot times.

B.