Wow, I didn't look at the pictures showing the plugs either........sorry. If these plugs are adjacent to each other; first the center and right plug are too hot........see the speckels..........burning too hot, you should try at least one if not two heat ranges down. I have never liked AC's, but.... The plug on the left looks oil soaked............not fouled yet, but soaked. That are a lot of different things happening on one side of the motor....what do the other plugs look like?????? Here are some plugs that have been run a couple of weekends, yes, they are buring a little rich............but with 15:1 CR I certainly don't want to go hotter, and also I backed the timing off from 38 to 32, next outing I will go back up to 34. The one plug looks a flat black and the other looks shinny...........oily. I haven't done a leak down yet, but suspect it's a valve...........we will see.
This is why i always say that you MUST know where your timing ( TRUE TIMING true TDC must be found) and fuel pressure and flow is at, At all times. You are very lucky if you haven't hurt the top rings. Also an AC plug is one of the worst plugs that can be used for any power adder application. The ground strap is to thin. It will glow under any kind of power adder use. Use the autolite racing plugs with the cut back ground strap.
ya know about the importance of timeing. i have a memory of seting the timing retard on the msd before it put it in my dash. ok im not running ac spark plugs. im running autolites. also it turns out that i have to goto a non resistor plug to get one that is colder. so thats what im geting a colder non resistor racing plug. ive been e-mailing motorking who is a tech at autolite. he poped up on this site last year and has been very helpfull.
The 124 is a standard resistor plug that would be 2 heat ranges colder than the 45s. Or if you want a non resistor that is3 heat ranges colder the ar33s, 4 heat ranges colder is the ar32s. http://www.woodys-auto-supply.com/performance-accessory.asp?prod=A77-124
Yeah, motorking popped in to help me with those cut-back plugs...http://mmb.maverick.to/showthread.php?t=62386&highlight=spark+plug
so here is the details of the cause of bryant's sparkplug meltdown. we took off the valve cover on the driver's side and then the heads came off. there was this slight discoloration exactly where the wrist pin was. there is no groove actually in the wall though here is the head on the cart if you look closely you might be able to see the edges aren't very smooth on the valves. that was the problem, looks like they were hitting something or hitting each other. so bryant took it to the machine shop that's local and the guy started taking it apart. he said the guides were worn down and the valves were having too much wiggle look how bad the edges look on these valves. now look how nice the passenger side heads look
thanks for that info. it will be very helpfull when i put the car back togther. no update on the head yet. ive been busy and the machine shop hasnt called.
Awsome documentation. I was thinking about the guides just before reading that part. It looks like them valves are really close to begin with. What's up with that discoloration in the cylinder? Looked into that yet?
the machinest said that came from a hot spot probly caused by a pice of the electrode geting between the piston and wall. there is no scoreing that can be felt and the cross hatch is still there.
so i got my heads back. they got new valve guides, new valves, and surfaced. they were warped also. the builder of the heads thinks detination harmed the guides then that allowed the vavles to touch and it all went down hill from there. he said that the "good" heads guides were worn also and not far behind. he also port matched my intake and grinded down the dividing wall in the plenum. he was very concered with the nitrous not distrubting equaly in that plenum. he is geting me a fogger plate to replace my cheater plate. it has twice as many holes than the cheater so it atomizes the fuel beter and distrubutes beter. ill take some pics of the port work and post them later. i should have it all toghter by the end of this week and will go and run it at barona drag stip on sat night.
i got it all togther and got to the track yesterday. it runs really good. consider this chapter of my cars life closed. next chapter i hope is t-5 conversion. does anybody want to buy a built c4 with lots of goodies?
Lean condition, get more fuel to it. If the valve guides were so bad the valve heads touched, it would probably bend the stem etc. Being the heads are warped I suspect very lean condition which heats up internals way over the acceptable range. Invest in a good EGT meter and see what it is running at full throttle. Personnaly funny gas is more trouble than it's worth JMO
