Hi all I am hoping to pick some of your brains. I am going to attempt my first major(to me anyway) engine modifications to my car. I have always been content with the easy bolt on stuff, headders,mags stereo, stuff like that. I am going to install a cam, intake and 4barrell. I am looking at the Jegs cam kit. The specs are 276/286 .471"/.471". I know the low rpm range is a little high at 2000 but I am hoping to get a small stall pretty soon. Is this cam OK with a bone stock engine? Will it lope much? Next I have a factory Ford aluminum intake and an old Edelbrock performer 289. Which would be better? I was thinking a 600cfm Holly vacum secondary carb. The car is stock except for headers and 355 gears. Any sugestions,opinions or comments are welcome. Also do you think this could be a mid 14 second combo? Thanks for any help. Cary
Cary, somehow I missed this post. Have you started yet? You might look into a newer 302 roller motor. I got mine for $175. I have one on a stand waiting till I can "pull the plug" andhave it gone trhough before I install it. If you need a hand, I might be able to come to Tulsa and do some heavy looking on for you. Let me Know Bob___
So are you looking for advice on your purchases or advice before you make the purchaces? If you haven't bought anything yet then I need a bit more info. I assume it is for a Maverick or Comet: How will the car be used? How often will you use it? I assume from the comment about a higher stall converter that you will be using a C4? I doubt the combo will get you into the 14 second area without losing a lot of weight first.
Before buying a cam, you first need to find out what the compression ratio of your engine is. Factory Ford intake ? Which one is it? (post the casting numbers from the runner forward of the carb pad) Unless it's a factory aluminum dual plane high rise ( the C9OX casting) it's likely no better or worse than the Edelbrock Performer 289 (if it's what I think it is, they're virtually the same intake as far as performance goes) The 600 is a good pick as far as a carb goes, others are the 570 Street Avenger and the list 80783 650 Holley. The 355 gears are going to be a huge help in getting it into the 14's.
Hey Bob how are you? The engine I have was rebuilt about 20,000 miles ago so I am going to use what I have. Thanks for the offer I may just take you up on it. Cary
Paul: I have everything but the cam. I was looking at the Jegs cams becouse they have the kit for $99.00. It is a "73 Maverick, as for use it is just a weekend toy that I would like to take to the track every once in a while. I am planning on using the c4. Cary
I do not know the compression ratio, the engine is a stock '77 model rebuilt to factory specs about 20,000 miles ago. The only numbers I found on the intake were on the rear runner behind the carb pad. TheyI know are RF-E4ZE-9425-GA. I know there are a ton of variables I was just looking for some input. Cary
"Rebuilt to factory specs" covers a wide range of comp ratios. To make an informed cam choice, you need the actual comp ratio. The E4ZE intake is damned near identical to the Perfomer 289 in performance. There's not a dime's worth of difference between the two.
Are you still thinking about a Thumpr? If it helps, here's the cam I have in the blue '73. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-31-226-3/ Let me know if you want any help when you pull it apart.
Dang Randy I didn't realize your cam had that much lift. Do you have a converter? It seems like a big cam for a stock converter. I was going with the jegs becouse of cost. The Thumper is like $250, the jegs cam&lifter set is $99. I was trying to go as big as possible without over caming it and loosing my low end torque that I need running a weenie converter. I have already started work the rear is completely disconected and ready to drop out of the parts car. Gonna start takin the '73 apart next weekend.
How would I get the compression ratio? I know the individual cylinder compression. It ranges from 127 psi to 130 psi across all eight. I have each one written down somewhere, I will try and find it. Cary
cylinder compression test numbers are different from compression ratios. you need to know the cylinder bore. how far the piston sits in the or out of the cylinder at tdc. the head gasket thickness, the combustion chamber size, the size of the dish and or valve reliefs in the piston. unless you have all this you wont be able to figure out your compression ratio exactly. now if you know what heads you have and what pistons you have you can get a good guess as to what your compression ratio is.
You're in effect measuring the dynamic compression here. You're current cam has got a role in the results you've got. As Bryant has pointed out, you need the actual static ratio to make an informed cam choice.
