Oil treatment? Whats the best oil? Do any of yall use any oil treatments? if so what kind and what exactly is the change? i am puting in a oil cooler well its a trans/oil cooler and i was woundering if i should use a oil treatment when i start driving it agen.
Consumer's Reports did a study several years ago with NY taxies. The long and short of it was synthetics did not change anything. I think the FTC got after all those characters. see, http://www.ftc.gov/opa/1999/09/prolong.htm I owned several oil change facilities, and after 18 years, and at least 1 million oil changes, we never found an oil related engine failure. I believe Quaker State has some sorta guarantee that if you use their oil, they will guarantee against an oil related failure. Just change oil frequently, and use a quality national brand. Charles
i am talking about the stuff you put inside your oil, some of this stuff says it cools the engine buy 60% it doubels the life of your car stuff like that. i use quaker state oil. i dont rember the kind right now but i just bought 10 bottels of the stuff.
Most oil companies recommend that you DON"T use an additive. They say it could upset the "recipe" of additives that they already provide and do more harm than good. About the synthetics, I started using Royal Purple a couple years ago. I like the extended drain intervals, I now go a year between changes. Royal Purple says I could go longer but a year is fine. Over the course of a year it actually is less expensive than doing four regular changes and I like the added cold startup protection in the winter.
The difference between syn oil and dino oil is the base stock. The additive package is for practical matters the same. The anti-oxidizers, the viscosity packare, etc are the same. The problem with extended service intervals, is that these additive packages deplete, and are diluted, over time, for both oils. Syn oil additives do not last longer than Dino oil additives. Remember when Mobil 1 first hit the scene. They advertised extended intervals, but that has ceased. Syn oils do tolerate high heat better, but the type of heat we experience in most driving does not approach that level. I got to use whatever oil I wanted at our stores, and I always used dino oil. 502/502 Chevelle, Sprayed, bored and stroked Impala SS, 514 Mustang, Supercharged Lightning, Supercharged Suburban, all got Dino. However, what is important is how you feel, so indulge yourself. Charles
I had heard that some of the oil additives/treatments can clog up the oil filter to such an extent that eventually the filter can't even do its job anymore.
I always use synthetics, more for the extended change intervals than anything. I do change the filter every 3000 miles though, and add a quart to make up for losses. I find it really hard to believe that synthetics haven't been shown to have any advantages over "dino oil". Every single bit of documentation i've ever seen says not to break in an engine/transmission/diff. gears with synthetic because it does not allow the parts to properly wear together. Shouldn't that tell you something? Also, i try to avoid Pennzoil and Quaker State (only because it's owned by Pennzoil). Many an old mechanic has told me Pennzoil gums up the lifters...and rather than testing that theory, i just go with Valvoline or Castrol.
i try to avoid Pennzoil and Quaker State (only because it's owned by Pennzoil... Actually they are both owned by a Dutch oil company now. And probably some other nationality owns the Dutch company. Before switching to syn oils I used Pennzoil eclusively for about 30 years with no problems. Many, many years ago problems could occurr if you mixed Pennsylvania oil and Texas oil, it would cause sludge to develop. That's probably what the old mechanic was refering to.
Synth oils DO lubricate better, and you can run a lower viscosity for increased horsepower. The only downside is price. Don't believe it? Try running a full synth oils in a motorcycle with a wet clutch. You will get the idea.
ok... i'll jump in! 250,000 miles on my old toyota pick-up says to me that regular oil is fine. since most of my driving was highway, i changed the earl every 4 or 5 thousand miles. my other cars, mainly local driving, gets their oil done every 3000 or 3500 miles. never used synthetics. never will. 250,000 miles on a toyota. or as a mechanic i know told me when i asked him "what kind of oil is best for my car?" he said "CLEAN OIL" i am personally fond of valvoline. can't explain why...
250,000 miles on a toyota is not the uncommon try 260,000 on a ford Aerostar cargo van 3.8L change oil every 4 or 5 thousand miles also about every 3rd i put a jug of the lucas in it the stuff does help the motor use to tick a little that was around 200,000 put the Lucas in it went away and never came back
You mean we are supposed to change oil? Wouldnt that add to the cost of maintaining a vehicle?? I dont like it one bit, I am leaving the oil the factory put in my car.:bananaman and for that matter:bananaman :bananaman :bananaman :bananaman
Someone else was asking about oils for a rebuilt mill, but I'll repeat some of what I said here. Consumer Reports tested oils several years ago. They found that the only one that lived up to it's claims was Castrol. Fram came up significantly on top as the best filter. I use these brands exclusively with very good results on all my vehicles. As to additives, I've used Lucas with success, especially on a worn engine. I had an '88 Toyota a while back that used more than a bit of oil, high mileage also. Lucas cut the consumption in half and the engine seemed to have more pep. After my 18 y/o son got it, the engine still ran well even after his abuse. Never a clogged filter or any internal problems. I use it in all the fleet now. I use synthetics in my motorcycles and have for years. They run cooler and smoother on synthetics, especially when I had an air cooled one.
