how do i hook up the electric choke on a 4bbl edelbrock? i read somwhere that it goes to somwhere on the starter but im not sure
Just needs to be wired to any 12 volt source that is only hot when the key is in the run position. You can run it off the "I" side of the starter solenoid. If your not sure what that means then.... The starter solenoid has two large posts on the sides, battery cable and starter cable. Then on the side that points towards the motor there are two small posts. One has a small "S" above it and one has a small "I" above it. the "S" onlt gets power when you turn the key to "Start" the car. the "I" gets power when you have the key in run or "ignition on" position. Depending on the year of your car there is a wire in the harness going to the motor that you can plug into that is already hot when the car is on. Probably for cars where there was an electric choke originally.
When i got my car (74 like yours) The previous owner used a white wire comming out of the wiring harness in the front, on the passanger side, With a group of wires going to the voltage regulator. Thats the front passanger side, white wire. Take a look.
The choke is powered from the center tap of the alternator, so that current is constantly applied to the temperature sensing disc. The system is grounded through the carburetor body.
That would probably be the cleanest way to hook it up, shortest wire to run. But now that I think about it wouldn't that leave it constantly on? Or is the black ringed post only powered when the ignition is on? You dont want a constant power source because it can drain your battery, but if you probe it and it powers off when the key is off, then go for it.
I have a single wire alternator and an HEI distributor with a #12 or #14 (can't recall) wire from the ignition sw providing 12V. I put a splitter on the distributor wire and ran a lead to the choke. Seems to work fine.
Don't think that tapping into the distributor power would work in all cases. Depends on if the wire to the distributor is a resistor wire of if it still carries 12 volts. A quick probe will tell for sure. If its 12 volts and a stock coil you can just put a ring terminal on a wire and run it to chocke, or it you got spade terminals on the coil you can get the double spade connectors from the autoparts store and just plug it in.
Ah ha, the "s" Stator terminal, only hot when key is on. Nice. If the coil is closer to the chock then might want to try that too. Good ideas guys. Always learning on this sight. Now too bad i don't have a choke on my car, don't need it in Phoenix, its just a good weather car anyways
Right and right. When testing for voltage at the + side of the coil, do it with the motor running. With motor not running, you might see 12V even if you have a resistor wire, e.g., when points are open.
On Ford electric chokes you can use the Stator wire from the alternator but both Edelbrock and Holley require full battery volts DC be connected to their chokes. The Stator wire on the alternator is less than battery volts (about 7 - 9 volts). Edelbrock and Holley choke will not work properly unless they are connected to full battery volts. The "I" terminal on the starter relay (solenoid) will supply less voltage and your choke will rob some of the power from your coil. This is unacceptable even on a daily driver - it is death on a performance engine. Find the auxillary power wire under the dash that comes on with the ign switch and is not on when the switch is in the accesory position. That way you will get full power to your choke and everything else will work correctly too.
Just so you know not all electric chokes are designed to work off of the 'Stator' connection on the alt as a power source, And not all fords used this design either. If the choke you choose to use is rated for 12 v and it is connected to the alt 'S' term the choke will never work correctly. It also could cause damage to the alt. Also never connect and electric choke to the Dist connection or the + coil connection as you will overload the ballast (pink) wire. Either find a hot switched 12 v source or install a relay. A lot of wrong information floating around. Only use the 'S' connection if you know absolutely the parts are compatibile. RS
