fords ignition wire has a resitor wire in it. so with the resistor wire and the mallory resistor in the same wire you are droping the voltage to the coil alot. i would rewire the sytem like this. have the wire that comes from the harness and goes to the mallory resistor and move it to the positive post on the coil. now take a new wire and run that either from the same wire in the harness or from the postive post on the coil to the mallory resistor. now run a wire from the mallory resistor to the mallory distributor. this should allow the coil to get enough voltage to develop a good spark and keep the mallory distrubtor from geting too much voltage.
You're about two hours away from me. I can't make it up that way this weekend, maybe Maverickmadness is a little closer.....
You should test the voltage to the coil to be sure it is getting 12v. I think I would put it back together and check to see if there is a spark coming out of the coil AT the coil. While cranking use the test light and just barely hover over the coil where the coil spark plug wire comes out, which should be removed if your understanding what I'm describing. Connect test light clip to a good ground obviously. IF there is a spark then put the coil wire back in and check the other end of the wire that goes to the dist while it is loose, not pluged into the dist. Maybe it's a bad coil wire.
ive had more than 1 person on here tell me that the maverick ha a built in resstor wire so i his is true im gonna try running my wires without a resistor
Yes, that's true. An after market coil can accept 12v. If I'm not mistaken, the factory one takes less.. I believe that the resistor is so that charging voltage is kept down at the coil. If the alternator goes to over charging the coil could get damaged. The newer versions of coils may not be affected as easy..
SOME after market coild are for use without a resistor. Most are made to OEM specs and need the resistor - whether it is hidden in the harness or on the fender or firewall. The coil will say use external rsisto ror use without external resistor right on it.
I just had the same issues yesterday. crank but no spark. Check your wires inside the dist make sure they are not touching anything they shouldnt be clean off the grounds and wipe any build up off inside the dist and make sure your point is set right. If you get 12 volts coming off the coil but it doesnt go anywhere else the problem is in the dist. mine was faulty ground issues.
i dont have points i am using a mallory unilite with a jegs brand universal canister coil,i have a mallory ballast resistor #700 the ignition wire and unilite red wire is on one side of the resistor and another wire from the positive side of the coil connected 2 the other side of the resistor ,with my voltage meter hooked to any of these spots they show around 11.25 -11.35 volts while the switch is on ,but one thing is only with the unilte rotor button removed as soon as i place it back on and it coves the optic light there is very low volts what does this mean ?i havnet had time to tinker with it since my wife and i have decided to place our house on the market but as soon as i can im gonna run with out the ballast resistor since everyone here says the car has one built in to the harness and get back with eevryone to see what happens then
that shows that the mallory is working. its switching the ground on and off. do you have the mallory wired up correctly? what is the battery voltage when you make those checks? check on the mallory site for wireing directions if you dont have them. can you manualy trigger a spark? take off the - wire of the coil. take a scrap pice of wire and strip both ends. put one end on the - post of the coil. take the coil wire that goes to the distrubtor cap and set so its end is about 1/4 inch above something metal on the motor, like the valve cover or intake. turn the key to the run position. now you should be able to touch the ground wire to exposed metal on the motor then take it off. that should trigger a spark from the coil wire. if that doesnt work the the coil is bad or not geting enough voltage.
i have a copy of the mallory wiring the green wire is hooked 2 the neg sid eof the coil the brown wire is grounded 2 a vale cover bolt ,my covers are aluminum so i dont know if thats hindering the ground or not???does it matter?? where is the best place for the brwon wire if so? the red wire from the mallory unilite and the hot switch wires are on one side together on the ballasr resistor ,the other connection of the resistor has a wire rnning from that side to the positive side of the coil sooo what do ya think? NO i havent checked the battery voltage buti will ive done a coil check and its good thanx again for your help
is your engine grounded to the frame/firewall? ...I have braided ground straps from each head to firewall...and a #4 ground cable from frame to engine... ......
try the simple things first #1 power to the coil #2 block to frame ground #3 block to batt ground #4 voltave output from coil #5 fire to plugs
