So Here's The Deal??Newbie??

Hi Folks,
I'm a newbie here, as well as with Mavericks, so please be gentle. I have an opportunity on a 70-72 (forgot to check VIN to be sure) Maverick. Here are the known and supposed details:
>Plain Jane 2-door/bench seat, front seat bottom needs recovered.
>250/Automatic/power steering/AC-supposedly blows cold
>Body and chrome/trim is perfect, only ding is in the front bumper (dinged, not bent), appears to be original paint, dull and oxidized but otherwise perfect, not a speck of rust (even underneath) anywhere/life long Las Vegas car.
>8" rear, not sure if 4 or 5 lug as all 4 original full wheel covers are still on it.
>Front drum brakes
>Dash pad=perfect
Owned by a non-mechanically inclined young guy. Car currently won't start. Nothing under the hood, wiring vacuum hoses, etc appears to have been messed with, all original appearance. He's asking $3200 and I told him I wouldn't go a penny over $2000, not running and that to think about anything over $2500,it would need to run/drive great with AC ACTUALLY working. My plan for this car would be to make a nice driver for my wife, including:
<Make sure that the 250, or another just like it, is mechanically perfect, no real mods except maybe Duraspark ignition setup.
<AOD transmission upgrade with, of course, rear end gears to compliment it. Lots of highway driving around here.
<Front manual disc upgrade.
<Borgeson integral power steering box conversion
<Make sure that the AC is "bullet proof" to the point of any upgrades including a sanden compressor conversion if needed.
<All new (as needed upon inspection) brakes/suspension/steering/wires/belts/hoses/radiator/etc.
Properly done, this car should last/drive very well for many years, with regular maintenance.
I guess my main question is, even though the car is extremely straight, is it priced way too high, or is it just about right for a planned keeper? My thought is that even if a little on the high side, many years of generally trouble free/dependable driving/use will offset the initial price. Even a complete engine rebuild, with everything but the machine shop work, done by me, should be able to be kept under the $1500 mark. I'm assuming that if I were buying it to detail and re-sell, I'd likely take a bath or at very best, break even. I realize that it would be fairly easy to swap to a 5.0, but we are looking for economy/longevity and a properly rebuilt/maintained 250 should last almost for ever. I truly appreciate any and all thoughts and comments.
Thanks In Advance,
Gene

 

Up here, 2 grand for a rust free Maverick would be considered a deal.
My wife would never drive a Maverick as a everyday car, no matter how nice it was.
If you can do the work yourself, and your wife likes driving old cars, go for it!

 

I would think that only you know what your willing to pay. Obviously you want to buy low and have money to repair and upgrade. It's hard to put a dollar value to something unseen. So my opinion that it sounds high priced is based on that I don't have that much money lol.
There are some tricks to see if there is hidden problems. If possible, pour a bucket of water on the windshield and see if it leaks inside around the firewall. Try using a flashlight and looking inside the cowl vents real close. How about where the battery sits? How does that area look? AC aint cold when it don't start lol. Get the VIN and post it so the guys who know how to decode it can tell you some additional info.

 

I think your price of 2K is more than fair. I wouldnt pay more unless if it was a grabber. Now from what ive read 302 actually got better economy than 250s. I dont have personal experience with that though, as ive only owned a 200 and it got twice the fuel economy than my 302. Where are you located? Theres pretty good deals out here in Southern California.

 

from the great NW. I bought a 77 mav last january from the original owner. It is a garage kept, rust free, never wrecked car with power disc brakes and power steering, no ac. I picked it up for 2k which I think was a good deal. It hadn't run for a year, but they had put stay-bil in the gas, so with a jump from my explorer and pump the gas a few times, it started and I drove it home. I replaced the shocks, radiator, new wheels and tires, tune-up,srvice, and front end alignment, a few cosmetic touches and I have put about 6k miles on it since. It sounds to me that you have made a good offer. It all boils down to what the car is worth to you and how much you have to spend. Good luck, and I hope you can make the deal.

 

In tucson,AZ on craigslist a car much like your discription just sold for $400.00. maybe do some shopping around before you commit that much money. sounds like he bated you at 2000. and waiting to see if you'll walk in with maybe 1700. he would still be money ahead if the car is not running.

 

71nogo,
His asking price was $3200, the $2000 was my top offer if running. Oil on dipstick looks/smells ok. I think it's a dirty fuel line/fuel tank issue. I will go over and try to start it off of a steel fuel can and if it runs well with working AC, I might go $2400-$2500. Still a bit much and I'll keep looking at others.
Thanks for the replies,
Gene

 

If it starts (with cold working a/c) factor in tow bill, what repairs will it take to get it at least streetable, then make your offer. its a buyers market right now. and to quote your brother : GETTIN' OLD ANI'T FOR SISY'S! Did i speel that right?
BTW- To the board. when you get established send us some pix of your ride!

 

Welcome to the board. Good luck with the car.

 

nogo,
Yeah, all tires are worn evenly, so front end isn't too bad. I just rebuilt all of my 68 Mustang, so I'm "painfully"familiar/aware of the suspension/steering stuff. Car is 2 blocks from my house, so me and a buddy could push it home, although, note the 69 F250 in my signature, it includes a trailer if needed.
I figure $1K maximum for street worthy, including a disc swap. By the way I see a bit of, seeming, mis-info around here concerning brake master cylinders. Being a new guy, I don't mean to pee on anyone's parade , but even though most parts house books improperly/poorly list/supply them, for especially the manual discs, a drum master will not work properly and should not be used with disc brakes and vice-versa. By now, even though the ones many list/sell for 4 wheel drum may look just like the disc master, they are not the same. The drum masters have residual valves installed in both ports where as the disc/drum units have a residual valve for the rear drums only. Many manufactures and re-builders use the same casting for all, but drill out the fitting boss that goes to the drums larger to put the residual valve in. That's why the need for a larger fitting/adapter for the rear brake line. I know all this crap because I'm using a 74 manual disc/drum master for my 68 Mustang to avoid the need for a vacuum booster. It was a BITCH tracking down the right one, especially because I needed to find a brand that had the pedal rod "NOT" already installed, as it is too long for a Mustang application and impossible to remove without destroying the master cylinder. Power and manual are different also.
Just My $.02 or $.03,
Gene

 

I think if you could get it for $2000 would be a good deal from your description. Rust free adds a lot to the value in my opinion. When you restore a car repairing rust is usually the most costly part of the restoration. Labor is expensive and not much being made for these cars at this time. Good luck with it.

 

Here's a few pics of my crap-box Mustang. I call it "The Screamin' Rat", cause the ABSOLUTELY RUST FREE body/paint is so UGLEEYYY. It's pretty scarey fast!
Specs:
>99 "Explorer" 5.0 from Ford Motorsports, brand new , not rebulit
>GT40"P" heads
>B303 cam
>1.7-1 ratio roller rockers
>Performer RPM intake
>Autolite 4100/1,12 venturi carb
>8 qt Moroso T-pan
>Tri-Y headers
>Magnaflow 2 1/2" stainless exhaust
>Z-spec T5

 

Engine looks sweet! nice work. how long till we some pix of the maverick? BTW dont forget to pour some water down the cowl to look for leaks on the mav.

 

I apologize if I broke any rules by posting "non-Maverick" pics, at least it is definitely a Ford. I just wanted to share some of my work so you folks could see that I at least "sort of" know my stuff. I don't own the Maverick yet, but if/when I actually get it, I will post before and after "clean/spruce up" pics.
Thanx,
Gene

 

Hey Gene, see you took my advice and come on over! These guys know their stuff most of the time, except for one or two who just think they do. Now go get that Mav and have fun!

Oh, we post all kinds of pics here [G rated, we have some kids here]. I think I still have some pics up of my 1955 International tractor!