Alot more to valve spring setup than just allowable lift. I would recomend you pull a head and take it to the machine shop with your cam card. Let them see if its right, my guess is you will be pulling other head to take to amchine shop as well for proper springs installed that meet your cams specifications.
That is what I was wondering. I am sure it wouldn't dissolve too fast, but would it be fast enough? If you look at it like: "Some is better than none, and none is what oil has", then I suppose it wouldn't hurt.
NO, you need to disolve the zinc with hydrochloric acid, wash it, dehydrate it, rinse the salts and then disolve the zinc in the motor oil under specific heat and pressure conditions. This is not something you can do in your kitchen at home.
If each cam wiped a single lobe, then I'd suspect the lifters, not the cam. I wiped a lobe on two different cams and with each one, it definately wasn't the lack of zinc that caused it. It was either the lifter on each of those lobes that failed to spin in the bore, or a bad lifter, or a combination of the two. Lack of zinc will not wear a lifter/lobe in 20 minutes run time. It will happen over a much longer period of time and will most likely affect multiple lifters/lobes, not a single.
Just because they are "good for the lift I wanted to run" doesn't mean they're the right springs for that particular camshaft. Only time you can do something like that is with a roller cam. Chances are....you've got too much spring for those cams. What you should do is buy the springs that are matched to your camshaft, run a proper break-in oil (heavy in zinc) along with properly coating the camshaft lobes/lifter faces with moly lube and, after the break-in, use a quality synthetic. Simple. Mark your calendars, folks......PaulS and I finally agree on something. Not the exact chemical process but close enough.
After much looking around on the internet I found that my current valve springs from AFR are about 500 lb/in and the ones that Comp Cams recommends are about 300 lb/in. My next cam will have the matching springs and if I do put another flat tappet in it I will use some kind of additive. Thanks for all the help.
. lordy lordy 500lb/in springs are roller springs most likely . way tooo much to break a cam in.flat tappets springs unless full on race springs usualy in range of 120 lb/in closed and 250 to 300 lbs/in open. depending on app. install height plays a big part in pressure, coil bind, retainer to guide clearances also. and i still would break in with a stock single spring then put the recomended ones on after break in.
Just me, but I'd definately go roller and keep the springs. Howards Cams makes retro fit roller lifters for a decent price now, something like $265 a set.
What does it take to make factory hydraulic roller lifters work in a non-roller block? Can it be done, or is it a must to use aftermarket lifters... (Not trying to hi-jack! Just trying to expand on a topic that might help Stephen convert....)
. not a must to use aftermarket lifters unless u gonna be turning lots of rpms. but i prefer the tie bar aftermarket rollers. if u use the factory, you must drill and tap the lifter valley for the spider and be sure and use the wishbones also.i had a pic some where did a block if i can find ill send to you.
To run factory lifters you need to run a reduced base circle cam. Most guys will shun you if you even mention using one. Lol
