Some advice from the Gurus please! Rear suspension

Discussion in 'Technical' started by Swede, Aug 14, 2004.

  1. Swede

    Swede Member

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    Hi guys!
    Now that my -72 Comet GT is running fine as far as enginetemperature, I´ve started evaluating what else it might need. One thing that sticks out like a sore thumb when I drive the car is that the driveshaft bottoms out and grinds against the (non stock) bolt and nut that keeps the safetybelt fastener to the driveshaft hump. This only happens if:
    1. I have a passenger in the car and either accelerate "semi-hard" or we hit a bump in the road at speed.
    2. I accelerate hard when driving it without passengers.

    I have been aware of this problem all along, though I thought that it was a matter of them leaving a too long bolt sticking out of the nut on the underside of the tunnel. After having had the car on a hoist and inspected the problem I have found that this is NOT the case. The bolt doesn´t protrude at all beyond the nut, and the nut is no more than 1/2" "high".
    This in turn leads me to believe that even if I got rid of the nut (which is doable but requires me to make a new fastener for the belts) the driveshaft might still bottom out, only this time it´d do it against the tunnel.

    So, instead I was thinking about getting a stiffer pair of shocks for my rear, possibly the adjustable airshocks.

    Before I do this though, I´d like to hear what you think of my ideas, and if you think that my evaluation of the problem itself seems realistic.

    Also, how much work would it be to install adjustable airshocks as opposed to a stiffer pair of ordinary shocks?

    This really is a small problem, the car is very driveable as it is. I can still burn rubber and accelerate hard, I just need to take it easy for the initial couple of feets until the suspension has caught up with the acceleration. But, I´d like to get it fixed so I can use the full potential of the car when I feel like it.

    Anders O
     
  2. Earl Branham

    Earl Branham Certified Old Fart

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    Swede; don't go with the air shocks. The shock mounts on these cars is prone to break and fracture, and the only time I have heard of this is with air shocks. I had a Sprint that did just that. I would go with a good grade heavy duty shock, and be sure your leaf springs are good, and not worn out. Hope this helps you. BTW, do you have an outlet to get new springs over there? Take care,
     
  3. Swede

    Swede Member

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    Hi Earl, and thanks!
    I´m not sure whether I can get springs or not, but I´d imagine that my local store could order them, it´s one of the better suppliers for vintage US carparts in the country. I´m hoping it won´t have to come to that though. Will let someone take a look at the springs first.

    I´ll follow your advice on the shocks.

    Anders O
     
  4. Dan Starnes

    Dan Starnes Original owner

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    Earl has given wise advice.
    Dan
     
  5. T.L.

    T.L. Banned

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    If your leaf springs have never been replaced, I can almost guarantee that they need to be. Your car is 30 years-old and spring steel fatigues and wears out from time and use. I have never heard of a drive shaft bottoming out on the underside of these cars. That sounds pretty serious to me.I don't know if J.C. Whitney ships to Sweden, but I got my new leaf springs from them for only $120 for the pair. New springs in addition to a new set of standard replacment shocks (they're all gas-charged nowadays) should cure the problem. If it does not cure the problem, then there is a serious problem...
     
  6. Swede

    Swede Member

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    Dan, thanks for the second (corresponding) opinion!

    T.L. I wouldn´t even consider questioning your judgement here, you are probably perfectly correct.
    And as far as availability, I´m pretty sure that won´t be too much of a problem. However, right now I think I´m going for the shocks as item #1, because cost is an issue too right now (if it costs 120$ for you, chances are that it will cost me more in the region of 200$ including taxes), plus I´ve only got another month and a half or so before fall hits and it´s time to put this baby away for the winter.
    Swapping the leafsprings sounds like more of a winterjob. I´m hoping to get a good enough result by getting new shocks to get me by the remaining time until it´s time to put the Comet in a garage for the winter.

    And as to not make you too concerned, there´s nothing seriously wrong with the way the car handles at all, quite the contrary (I have provoked it pretty good to get a feeling for it), except for the tendecy to bottom out against the nut holding the seatbeltfastener which is a bit worrying but can be worked around now that I now of it. I´m not even SURE that it would bottom out against the hump if I removed that nut, all I know is that 1/2" sounds a little bit too narrow of a gap to make me fell 100% comfortable that it wouldn´t still be a problem.

    Thanks for the good advice guys!

    Anders O
     
  7. scott

    scott Member

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    we have kyb G-2 shocks in back. new springs are easy to change...especially if you have a heated garage in the winter!
     
  8. Old Guy

    Old Guy Member

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    Check the condition of the rear trans mount and also the engine mounts too.
     
  9. Swede

    Swede Member

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    Scott, the heated garage issue is one of the reasons I sold my -67 Mustang and got this car instead. The Mustang was in need of much more work which I intended to do this winter, but I have just lost my garage. I don´t think this will be too much of a problem for the Comet though, I can probably get access to a heated garage for a couple of weeks this winter, so that I can swap the springs.

    Dave, will have them checked along with the springs, thanks for the suggestion! I have to repeat though that the car doesn´t feel "loose" at all even when provoked, and there are no suspicious sounds coming from the suspension or transmission. It feels like a very solid car to drive.

    Anders O
     
  10. mfp mav

    mfp mav Interceptor Member

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    ive heard of this happening with bad mounts. you stated it happened when you accelerated also. see if you can jack up your trans in the rear. mike
     
  11. T.L.

    T.L. Banned

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    Come to think of it, that actually makes more sense. Even if the springs bottomed-out on the pinion snubber, the shaft still shouldn't hit anything. Probably a broken mount...
     
  12. Swede

    Swede Member

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    Okey, for the benefit of a guy with ten thumbs, and the mechanical know how of your average invertebrate, WHAT mounts are we talking about? :D

    Anders O
     
  13. T.L.

    T.L. Banned

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    Transmission tail-shaft mount and engine mounts....
     
  14. Swede

    Swede Member

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    Ohh, yes that was discussed earlier. Sorry, I´ve been investigating the insides of a bottle of Laphroig tonight, so concentration may be wandering somewhat. :oops:
    No worries, I´ll be finished with my investigative work shortly. ;)

    I´ll try and get the car on a hoist tomorrow, and see what I can find out. Thanks a bunch for the help guys!

    Anders O
     
  15. PART-TIME

    PART-TIME Member

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    I would check all the mounts as mentioned. As said before, I also have never heard of the shaft hitting the under side of the car (there should be rubber bump stops on the car to prevent that). If the drive shaft were rubbing the seat belt bolt or nut there would be a visual line or scrape mark around the shaft where it's making contact. I had a new exhaust system ran on my Mav. and it's o.k. when I'm driving alone, but when I load up the family and friends the exhaust will hit the axle on bumpy roads. Just a thought. Have you checked your exhaust system?
     

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