has anyone converted a automatic pedal assembly to a manual by adding a clutch pedal. Not looking to buy a unit tryin to get a cheap way out. I already have a clutch pedal from a 86 mustang. Any help is appreciated Thanks in advance Daniel
You'll be way better off by buying you a correct assembly. You can usually pick them up for $100-$125. Not worth the effort of trying to fabricate something over a bolt in part, especially if you plan on using stock linkage setup.
your probably right. Im gonna use a cable and quadrant out of the 86. Found some kits where you weld the quadrant to the pedal directly. I was gonna try something like that
There has been a few of us that have converted over to a hydraulic, bryant and Mo both have threads where we discussed it. I would HIGHLY recomend a hydraulic over going to a quadrant and cable setup. I started out on that road, and ended up with a hydraulic. As long with a couple others of us. In my opinion if your converting to manual either spend the money for ORIGINAL maverick parts, or go hydraulic. This is coming from someone who has a BUNCH of fox body and sn-95 parts in his garage. Including cables, quadrants, and firewall adjusters
i think injectedmav used the fox mustang clutch pedal. i belive he welded a tube up near the brake pedal mount to support the pedal. that also locates the cable loctation on the fire wall near the throttle cable. most people have problems with the exhast being too close to the cable.
I am using the cable setup, but it took a lot of "engineering" to get it to work right. If you're dead set on the cable setup, I welded a tube slightly back from the brake pivot to use the factory type quadrant and I added a plate that extends from behind the master cylinder up to the left where the cable protrudes through the firewall(essentially in the same place the factory mustang would go). All the mechanicals worked out wonderfully, but I had a really hard time(3 cables worth) keeping the cable off of the header. It was a matter of wrapping the headers and cable and using brackets to keep it off of it. I had to fabricate the bracket I mentioned before due to the force of the cable mount cracking the firewall(after 30k miles). The metal there was never meant for those forces. The bracket works like a champ tho and I haven't had any issues once I went back to a lighter clutch. If I had it to do again, I would probably go hydraulic even tho the cable route(if you get it right the 1st time) is ultimately cheaper. The pedal feel in my car now is like a stock Mustang and it does look stock unless you see the cable in the engine compartment. Let me know if you have any questions. btw: some of the guys that are using hydraulic systems are mounting it directly to the pedal bracket. This is the right way to do it because the forces of the clutch are carried by the pedal bracket itself not thin unsupported sheet metal which may lead to the metal fatigue issues I mentioned. If you add additional stresses in places they weren't designed, you will find the weak points. When in doubt, reinforce. For the mechanics that remember the Ranger...
I converted mine over in the early 90's - now my memory isn't what it used to be but I believe if you take the automatic brake pedal out of the pedal frame, the clutch pedal and small manual brake pedal take up the exact same amount of space with their spacers, bushings and clips. I'm pretty sure I'm still using my original automatic pedal frame
hydraulic is the way to go! much easier. i screwed with the cable and what not for about 4 hours and then went inside and ordered all the pieces for the hydraulic setup. the master cyl, slave cyl, and braided lines was a bit less than $200 shipped. i made the brackets in auto shop class at my school and installed it all in about 2 hours!
Bob is correct about the pedal. Remove the brake pedal and pin and you install the clutch pedal(which has the pin welded to it) through the assembly. The biggest problem I see is that Maverick pedals aren't reproduced(that I know of) and the ones that are out there are pricey.
Yes, you take the clutch pedal with the machined shaft on it - goes through the original automatic pedal frame and the shaft goes through the manual brake pedal - everything manual fits in the same space where the original auto brake pedal existed
Wow! That one is much nicer than mine was. I got mine out of a 70 that the windshield had been busted out, they were completely rusted solid. I couldn't save the brake pedal so I modified mine to use a quadrant with the Maverick clutch pedal(so it looked OEM).
This didn't look this way when I got the parts from the junk yard - everything has been glass beaded and painted and both pedal pads along with the chrome pedal trim pieces are new - I wish we could just find restored parts in parts cars LOL!
thankyou for all the info. Im gonna go ahead and try the cable route as I already have the stuff. I will weld a reinforcment plate to the back of the firewall. I have the dash completely out so this should be an easy prodject. If anyone has any pics where they welded the tube for the clutch pedal please post them. If it doesnt work out I can alway go the hydro later.
That's my thought as well. I'll try to get some pics tomorrow as well as the bracket. It mounts on the engine side under the pinch weld. What I meant was that you did a great job on the pedals, the ones I found were just too far gone.
