Hey guys, I finally got the cowl cover off so I could get a closer look at the damage, and to be honest, I'm a little heart broken. I've seen where some members have repaired their cowls, but this may be more than I can fix myself. I guess I would have to remove the dash and heater assembly to fully realize all thats in need of repair? From what I can see the torque boxes seem solid, the part that looks like it would require some talent is the firewall. I don't know how to repair the area where it comes up and theres a lip that the cowl cover is spot welded to. That lip is pretty much gone on each side, would I need a donor piece or have it fabricated? I know some will say find another car, but the rest of the car is solid, just wanted some opinions. Here's some pix.
Another place to look would be your floorpans. If the cowl leaks, the water would congregate in the carpet. I am going to echo what has already been said ... if you are this far into it, it is not that much farther to getting it all the way apart and fixing it. I have taught myself to MIG weld in the past two years, and I now feel that I could tackle that ... study up and go for it! A quote from Car Craft Magazine ... "If you can fog a mirror, you can MIG weld". I'll add it may not be as pretty as Frankft's stuff, but they are right. My welding is "functional",and with a little grinding "almost presentable". You already own the car, right? What is the worst thing that could happen? You will probably learn a ton. There are reproduction cowl repair pieces that are made for Mustangs. I would think those would be close enough that one could be made to work. Just make sure that the "tophat" ends up in the right place for the heater box. Is this an A/C car? ... if so you only need the tophat for the passenger side. The driver side could be fabbed from plain sheetmetal. The firewall looks like it would just need a 90 degree angle fabbed ... very easy for someone with a sheetmetal brake, but I have done the same with a bench vise and wide-mouthed sheet metal pliers, too.
You say the rest of the car is "solid", but are you 100% sure? The reason I ask is because I had a nephew who bought a car that he said was "solid", and once I looked at it closely...it was full of bondo. It looked pretty good...but somebody just did a really good paint job on it.
There is some rust in the floor but not too bad. I've taken all the interior out except the dash. This car was parked in 1987 unfortunately it was under pine trees, when I got the cowl cover off it was packed with pine straw and residue which is where the rust came from. If I could repair this rust this early Maverick can ride once again. Please keep the opinions coming and any advice as well, I really appreciate it Bossed
Hey Craig, this is a one owner original,never been repainted. It's an earlier Maverick with the key in the dash. The hood has the common rust under the lip, and the floor has a little rust where the cowl leaked. The trunk area including top of gas tank looks almost new, but the bottom of the gas tank has pin holes in it. Quarters, rockers, frame rails, top, the front snout all looks real good. Been parked from 1987 till I bought it in Nov 09', still has the chrome dealer emblem on the trunk. Brian
From doing the repair myself, you might be better off replacing the cowl in one piece, with a good one out of a donor car (I wish I would have, I had a complete cowl.) All the other sections, are easily repaired with metal. If the rest of the car is solid, it's worth it.
I repaired my 70 with new Mustang rings and sheet metal pieces but it was no where near as bad as what your picture shows Dave's right - find yourself a nice cowl from a dry climate
Thanks Dave, have you got any pictures of a Maverick with this part of the the cowl removed? I've never seen this removed, how bad of a job is it? Again, thanks
I would fix it. To resonate what the other guys have said, if that is the worst damage and the torque boxes are good, you should be ok. Just take it slow and research plenty.
Mine wasn't as bad as yours but did have to patch the fire wall and side under the cowl. Think the process could be about the same. I'm no expert but I suggest you get some Clecos [ame="http://www.amazon.com/Cleco-Fasteners-Panel-Repair-Pliers/dp/B003LZ5YW0"]Amazon.com: 25 1/8" Cleco Fasteners Body Panel Repair w/ Pliers - Clecos: Automotive[/ame] if you don't have them. They are GREAT for holding sheet metal pieces in place while you cut other pieces and weld them in. I used pop rivets too and welded the holes shut when done.
Mavaholic has some, under his project photos, I think Craig also has some..It's just more drilling....
