Due to the fact I'm trying to piece my own front suspension package together I'm getting a few issues that won't end. The source of the problem! I used global west shelby drop templates which drop 1 1/4 to 1 3/8" by mistake. No problem just buy the wedge kit.. Next problem wedge kit drops the ball joint so the rim lip hits the UCA hump above ball joint. So the hump is removed plate welded in over hole, the rim now slides into place. Next problem is the 17x9 rims hit the UCA lip right as steering maxs out. (at ride height) Most of the time it will clear but just by .25". My concerns 1. Can I run the upper ball joint without the wedge kit? I know people say nothing over 1" on the shelby drop and I don't think the roller perches are going to help me run the 1 1/4-3/8s drop without the wedge. 2. Hoping the balljoint will be able to fit with the flatten tops in the UCA if I remove the wedge kit 3. Right now I'm running 05+ mustang disc setup and 1.5" spacers with the front fender rolled I still be hitting it them?
you may consider useing drop spindles. i know thats another expence but it should get you the clearance you need. also you can run stock lenght springs and the control arms stay closer to the factory design. jayman used some and did a write up on it some where on this site.
If you're pulling the UCA's back out again, you might consider redrilling the holes for a 1" drop then you can eliminate the wedge. The geometry of the UCA is why the wedge is needed and ride height does not change the geometry. At 1 3/8", you might have to weld those holes up as they might be too close to the 1" holes. Global west UCA's are another option since the ball joint geometry is corrected in the arm as are the Street or Track arms I use.
I'll post brake install pics when I get finished.. I had to replace the drum studs for the rotor to sit flush against the hub. I'm going to uninstall the wedge kit and that doesnt work order the global west uca that are made for this drop.
If you are considering installing the UCA's without the wedge with a 1 3/8" drop, I would highly recommend you install the suspension without the spring and upper ball joint boot and inspect the ball joint stud at full compression(bottomed on the jounce bumper) and see where the stud is in the ball joint plate. If the stud is very close to or, bound against the plate, it will break, it's just a matter of time and circumstance. An upper ball joint failure at speed will at least push the tire into the fender and you will have no directional control, probably resulting in significant damage. Since you flattened the top of the UCA where the bumper hits, it actually can travel farther than designed and if you remove the bumper for clearance, the travel is about 2" farther than stock. There is a good chance you are going to put the upper ball joint in a bind. It's a lot of trouble, but it's worth checking. Or, get arms with the ball joint angle designed into them. JMHO:Handshake
FATE STEPPED IN I spoke with Global West today to talk about my issues. Turns out as of this week they are releasing a new UCA that surpasses the old at the same cost. So with that hook I'm going to by the new UCA which suppose to now have caster built into also. Ugh if I know I was going to buy UCA I would have went the Mustang II up front, oh well. At least the steering is real nice with the borgeson.
I am very interested in your end results after all of this. I have been mulling over the front end dilemma for years now and I am too wondering if it would have been better to go with a M2 or strut front end but I'm too deep into the wallet with the stuff I have and I can't afford the down time to cut the front end out. My next major purchase is probably going to be the Borg box.
