How easy is it to screw up a valve cover?

I will remove and replace most anything attached to an engine without a hesitation, but I have always been afraid to mess with anything to do with the block.

Well, the new carb looks great on the Mav with the chrome air filter. (Thanks everyone for the info on switching from detent rod to kickdown cable.) Now the rest of the engine looks blah. I want to dress it up a little and put on a chrome valve cover. Reason tells me this should be a no brainer - remove a few bolts, remove any gunk from the old gasket, replace the gasket, and replace the bolts in the new cover. But like I said, messing with anything that could screw up the engine scares the living daylights out of me.

So how easy is it to destroy a car by changing the valve cover.

 

easy peasy to change, just avoid dropping any gasket or bolts down the engine

 

Just undo the bolts and pry it off. Clean up any old material and put down the new gaskets and the new valve covers. Pretty simple task.
An easy way to do it is to put the gaskets on the valve covers first and put the bolts in to the gaskets. They should help hold it there while you put it on the head.

 

The one thing to watch out for is to not over tighten the bolts.

Here's the instructions from Chilton:

And the cheapest price i've found:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SPE-5266/

It's the specter one designed for their maverick 6cylinder project. Company is here in the USA, actually next door to me in Ontario.

 

I get the fel-pro gaskets with the stops around the bolt holes. Keeps from warping the covers.

 

Not hard at all. Follow the gasket manufacturers install procedure. For Cork dont use any sort of a silicone type sealer on it. Guys have a bad habit of smearing a perfectly good gasket with silicone. It will cause the cork to move around and maybe even squeeze out of place. I use a spray contact type adhesive like pro form Sticky Stuff. A very light coat on the cover and on the gasket. After a minute or two apply the cork to the cover. It works as a contact type glue and holds the gasket nicely in place for the install onto the head. It will hold the gasket but still allow the cork to move naturally when you tighten the cover so the gasket can do its job. Like mentioned dont over torque the bolts. Dont buy a real cheap chrome cover. It likely wont seal well.

 

Good tip. If they make one for it use it. Its easy to overtighten the old covers.

 

...and it will be rusty in a month or two.
I would use a nut driver to tighten the bolts. 5 ft lbs is not much (a little bit over finger tight). After a few heat cycles you might wanna go back and check/tighten the bolts again.

 

"how easy"???...buy the wrong cover...

as pointed out...get a good cover...
most are junk and will warp/leak and rust within weeks.

...:Handshake...

 

I bought one of the chrome steel covers a few years back, '05 I think.

It was only about $30 shipped.

It has never leaked (I used the gasket w/ the metal rings), but, even though I had a clear powdercoat applied, the cheap chrome is rusted on the mounting flange.

So, other than the aluminum valve cover from Classicinlines, or these cheap chrome steel covers- are there any other after market options?

I was planning to bead blast the one I have and powder coat it Ford blue, but I'm a little worried it will rust again.

 

Even good chrome will rust eventually if not maintained. One way to prevent this is to wipe the chrome periodically with a clean oiled rag, same as you'd do with a good gun.

 

All of my guns are immaculate!

I was hoping that the clear powdercoat would keep them (valve cover, master cylinder cover, air cleaner, pullies, brackets, etc, I powdercoated everything) from rusting, trying to keep the car "low maintenance" for my wife. She is more the "no maintenance" type.

Come to think of it, though, she makes me clean her guns.

I might use Duracoat this time.

 

I've yet to see any clearcote that weathered well over time. And weathered clearcote is nearly impossible to remove. Nothing but elbow grease for me.

 

I agree. I've had bad results so far!

I used Duracoat firearms finish on my 82 Capri window trim, wipers, etc (and a few of my firearms).

It's resin based, and holds up amazingly! I think the next valve cover on the Maverick will be getting sprayed w/ it.

 

Don't have any guns for hubby to clean, but seeing as I am the car maintenance person, I would probably be the one to clean the guns too.

Thanks for all the tips. I thought it would not be difficult, but again, opening up the engine is beyond my skill level.

I am looking at Classic Inlines for the cover. Actually considering the aluminum one too. Of course, since Matt is buying it, I guess the final decision is up to him. I am just helping him get it done. I will pass on the info about the chrome and rust.