so check it out. my mav is completely stock and when i got it, it pulld to the right when it hit the brakes. got tht fixd by getting new brke diaphrams in the back cause the old ones were busted. then on tht day the mechanic coodnt get it to shut off aftr he startd it. ive had tht problem before and i would just try turning over again by bumping the key switch forward. i no tht its terrible for it but i had no othr chioce. we pulld it home and startd trouble shooting. up to now we've replacd the starter, the soliniod, the ignition switch, spark plugs and wires, the ignition coil and the voltage regulator. nothing. what it does is when you start it, it wont stop starting, it also doesnt turn off. anothr thing it does is the starter gets hung up if you get it to run. i cant explain in words the frustration and heart break ive been feeling over this car. she my baby and i know all of you can sympathize. ive retraced the wires and it seems tht on the 74' there is a reset button in which the ignition coil wire tht goes to the solenoid and the ignition switch wire tht follows, runs through tht. should i rewire the system to bypass tht the way the 71's are wired or is it something else?
You may have answered your own question. The starter should never be binding and staying engaged due to binding. If the car will not shut off I would get an isolated wire puller and cary it with you. Use that to pull the coil wire. Others may have a better idea.. You said you replaced the ignition switch. Do you mean the actual switch at the base of the column or the tumbler where you put the key?
You may have some wires under the dash on in the engine compartment that have shorted out, becoming melted togather causing that problem. Keep your cool, get somebody to help, and you can find the problem.
Good advice from both BluGene and Tomboy. It sounds like the wiring to your Solenoid is messed up, and possibly a damaged Solenoid, which could cause the starter to stay engaged, and not allow the power to the coil to be turned off, when turning off the keyswitch. * If you don't have the electrical schematic, then let us know, and I will post it here. (*update: added schematic) Make sure the Solenoid wire on the "S" Terminal is the Red with Light Blue stripe. Make sure the Solenoid wire on the "I" Terminal is the Red with Light Green stripe. Doublecheck the rest of the ignition circuit wiring, and let us know what you see. Make sure everything that should be grounded, is.....and don't disconnect these wires while the engine is runnning. BluGene is right about being careful to have an insulated wire puller/gloves, for killing the engine, as a backup. Good luck.
I think your right maybe they have had the wires switched to the Solenoid and both wires to the Solenoid are fusable links so he may have to replace them (They will be puffy if there fryed.) around $4.25ea at NAPA.
i replaced the part tht is bolted to the column itself. the one with the rod tht pushes in and out to start the car and all tht as im sure u no
thx cactusgrabber for the info (and tht goes for all of you!) and the schematic. some of the ones ive downloaded have never come out as clear or defined as tht one, itll come in handy. sadly chiltons only made a manual for the mav in like 1970 or so or i woodve gotten one already lol
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Maverick-Comet-Repair-Tune-up-Guide-Chiltons-1970-77-/270794029801?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3AMaverick&hash=item3f0c94fae9
So just a thought if wiring checks out. A Buddy of mine had this same problem. It turned out that last time he replaced his clutch he put his fly wheel on backwards. Not even sure why it was off... But the starter would engage and stay engaged unless he hit it with a hammer or hit the ignition again, if it's not the flywheel you might have to shim the starter. Especially if it's completely stock, a worn out fly wheel can cause funky things. Also make sure you check that the solenoid has a good ground in the engine compartment. It's grounded through it's case. i had a problem that was similiar caused by a bad ground. Also if it's taking you to long to get it started you could be getting the solenoid too hot and it could be sticking open.
Umm.. You should not shim our style starters. It pushes the starter away making the throw short. The teeth will not mesh. Our starters also fit into the hole and shimming will cause it to sit off centered. With the flywheel mentioned that makes me wonder if maybe the trans is loose.. THAT would cause misalignment for sure. I am suspecting the bendix on the starter is bent.
blugene has a good point ha. the starters arent a shim type. if the tranny is loose ide check all the bolts from the fly wheel or flexplate to torpue convertor depending on what u have and then the housing. you said u replaced the starter and im wondering if it is a reman starter or new and also if the teeth and every thing are correct.
I learned this because Eagle Transmissions in Mesquite TX put washers on mine and it ruined the starter and flexplate. They would not fix it or compensate for it either.. Bunch o monkeys! Speaking of starters. I have also seen different variations all using the same part #. Sometimes when you buy a used car it could come with some mismatched stuff also.
i forgot to tell you tht the starter problems have been going on since i had its original one on, though it didnt hang up and not shut off previously. i did put on the replacement myself and i may have put it slightly off or something but then again theres not much to it.. i will go back and check it though.
