Just FYI, back in 1990 after I had sold my 67-427 FB Stang, the guy I sold it to decided to drag race it. I told him the rear gear ratio needed to be changed (from the 2L50 ratio that came with the Versailles rear I'd swapped into it) But he didn't. He replaced the 235/60's on the rear with M/T 50's and promptly burned the clutch. He replaced the clutch with a button clutch and went back to the strip. He dumped the pedal at 5 grand and grenaded the Toploader 4 speed and the 9" rear. The stock 67 driveshaft ? It was fine and the only part of the driveline he could reuse. I did something similar with the stock 2 pc driveline in my 89 Ranger: dry burnout on a rough asphalt parking lot, 331 six pack (that now resides in my Comet) Toploader 4 speed, 3.73 trac-loc 8.8 rear, 275/60 tires. The weaklink wasn't the 2"dia. front shaft, wasn't the tiny center U joint, nor the 1310 front and rear joints, but the center slip yoke.
i am using a stock steel driveshaft of a fox body mustang... in order to swap it in i went to the parts store and got a precision ujoint part #353 dont know if that helps or not but it might... good luck with your swap
I ended up ordering this drive shaft which is a Ford Racing product for the 70-2004 mustang as mentioned above. I don't have the budget right now to purchase a mark williams product so hopefully down the road I can make the switch. If this doesn't fix the vibration I'll chase the pinion angle. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FMS-M-4602-G/
I did this swap a couple weeks ago, with that exact model Ford Racing driveshaft. I used this U-joint to connect to the 8" trac-loc rear end in my car: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FMS-M-4635-A/ I changed the rear u-joint myself with a u-joint changing tool I got from Harbor Freight. It was a little challenging getting the drive shaft in the car because of it's larger diameter, but I was able to do it without having to drop the exhaust. So far, so good...the driveshaft got rid of almost all of an annoying vibration the car has had for years...and a cheap replacement trans mount from Rock Auto got rid of the rest.
so the one you have is a 1310 to 1330 conversion. I recall needing a 1330 to 1350? I'm not sure, I'll find out. But thanks for the link.
I just looked up my Summit order and I got the 1310 to 1330 (the above style) and it worked in my case...
So this is what we need to change, it goes onto the rear end. We needed to order a new yoke as well and of course the U joint from 1330 to 1350. Here is the U joint special pliers to take out the clip we took it over to the press to remove the U joint, can't hammer because it's aluminum you can see that it's loose and it comes out pretty easy We packed grease into the new U joint inside the caps just for comparison We place it in like this and put the cap in from the other side and started pressing it on Then we put the clip in place and took it back to the press to push the other side in This is before we started pressing the other side 5/16th fitting to press grease into the U joint New yoke, we put this on before pushing grease in so that the caps don't fly off
Just FYI Mashori, if you really want the strongest, buy the U joints without the grease fitting next time. The fitting and the passages weaken the joint.
thanks for that info! here is what I started with today here is what I ended with Drives really well, the vibration I was having is a little better, not fully gone but hey, improvement counts
