Help;Looking at a motor tomorrow to purchase.

I was about to say $3 G's is a lot of engine money. Can build a mighty tight little 302 with some rockin' HP for $3 grand

 

Exactly. for 3 grand..not hearing it run..wouldn't be coming home with me.

 

If I had 3 Gs saved for my engine Id save another Thousand, and build an A$$ kickin 331. Which is my plan at the moment.

 

A lot of cash to lay out.to not know what your really getting

Fwiw I sold a complete 5.0,complete custom turbo kit,complete fuel injection swap with a laptop and tuning software all a direct fit for a maverick for that money and he got to ride in it fwiw

 

For $1800 you can build one hell of a 289 motor. Dyno tested at 330 hp and 336 ft lbs of torque. With factory cast heads.

 

From experience I wouldnt buy an engine from a stranger unless its a business with a warranty. You cant possibly check that engine over without tear down. If it was running thats different but I still wouldnt buy it unless it was stupid cheap. I hope hes not expecting to get his money back out of it sitting partially assembled with no warranty through a private sale.
For me it would have to be real cheap and I would tear it down before it went in a car.

 

I went and looked at the motor, it had obviously been sitting for 3 years or so, had light oxidization on all the aluminum parts. He had receipts for everything, It has a brand new fast module and wiring, trick flow uper and lower type R intake, tons of aeromotive fuel lines and fittings, but bottom line was it hadnt been turned over run or anything in years if at all.

He actually offered to tow it to our shop, and let me do WHATEVER I WANTED including putting a carb and distributor on it, and lighting it off!

Recap, for 3000$

It has a T-5 with scattershield and "racing clutch and flywheel" of which i could not check out. 750$ to resale?

DEFFINATELY has nice shiny AFR 185cc heads. 1400$?

Trick flow ported (Someone matched them to the gaskets by hand), injectors, Aeromotive lines and what not, resell for 450$? possibly?

Now until i hear it run I was figuring the valvetrain and or lower end to be bad, but receipts showed crower rods, do not recall the piston brand, comp cam, and receipts from a machine shop for THOUSANDS.

The car never moved with that engine and trans in it, it had the exhaust in the back seat, was sitting on doughnuts, no seats bolted down, no wiring harness plugged in; etc, etc.

I will give it a week and possibly get it down here to really dig into.

 

I would be careful about putting resale prices on some of these items. I have seen a couple of pair of new AFR 185's go a lot cheaper than $1400, and not everyone wants a racing clutch and flywheel. Kind of the reason I picked up picked up a brand new never used 1050cfm Holley for $250 even though the guy paid over $600.
I guess what I am saying is not to look at the price you could sell each individual piece because it may take you a long time and you may not get your asking price.............maybe a lot lower.......................IMHO
As for starting a motor that has been sitting for 3 years and as you mentioned a light corrosion on the aluminum pieces it means there was moisture...............and what did this do to the pistons/rings/bearings while sitting for 3 years. Was the motor totally sealed...........probably not..............If it were me I would pass on the motor unless the guy was willing to sell the motor less all of the stuff that you will not use, and deduct the retail prices of these items.................and even then I make it depend on pulling the motor down to inspect the internal parts and check clearances....................IMHO

 

That is a good point, I was just on the pipe dream that if I were to sell the unnecessary parts i may be able to reclaim 50% of the money spent.

I live in the bay area and to have a shop put together a 347 longblock 11-1 compression with any kind of decent heads and cam, they want easily 3500-4500$

In the end a used motor is a used motor is a used motor, might checkout good then get 500 miles down the road and the main fall out.

 

Well, I live in the Bay Area also, just off Blossom Hill.
As for spending $3500/4500 for a killer 347, well................just depends on what parts they use or if you buy the parts and they put it together for you.
Personally I would have someone do the machine work and put it together yourself, at least you know what you have when you are finished.
There are a couple of dyno's around the area, both chassis (Goodies has a good one) and engine setups to break the motor in and give it an initial tune.
I am having Bob Gromm doing the machine work on my 408 motor and should getting it back soon.
If you need help just let me know, I'd be glad to lend a hand if needed.
I have a nice seasoned(and freshly machined) 408 block I would let go reasonable, then all you need to do is stuff it with parts.
"Where there is a will there is a way".

 

Thanks for the offer, much appreciated. If I am spending the big $$ I would probably pay to get it assembled, that way I never have to second guess the engine.

 

I'm taking mine in next Friday.. I bought all parts and only things I'm getting the shopto do is bore it out, all bearings,polish and reinstall my crank, put my rings and kb pistons in which will run me around 850, saves you a ton if you know how to do these things yourself the to bore it out is only like 190. With a crank polish that runs like 70

 

that and if you pull it down to check it, there will be a gasket set to buy just for starters. if you check the cam and bearings, you will have the whole engine torn down. then you will have to pay someone to build it back... who will be the one to check it, you or a machine shop?
me....I would walk...