This is for the ones that arent restoring thier cars back to the original state or plan on having someone sit in the back all the time. Check out the attachment and give me your opinons
I wud nix the wood and use MDF - much denser than wood and what all enclosures are made from. At least all that I have ever seen.
I dont think 2 15's will actually fit. If they do, it will be tight. You may want to double layer your MDF to help reduce the vibrations. HA!!!! What am I talking about? The speaker produced vibrations will be the least of your worries. You may want to dyna-mat the entire car and not just the trunk. I've had as many as 3 10's in mine and can tell you that you will always have rattles. Im now working on getting a single 12" L5. It should do well.
I agree w/ this train of thought. I don't think 2 -15's will fit either. I can see two 10's and think two gud one's are all any reasonable person wud need. One 12" in the proper constructed enclosure wud most likely rattle windows down the block - If one is so inclined. I had a 10" open air in/behind my back seat - it had a lot of unwanted resonance. I eventually went to a ready made non-ported enclosure and it made a big difference in the boominess. I don't have my entire trunk area covered w/ dyna-mat type covering, cuz I don't want to have to remove it in case I need to do some body work.
I did a thread about the sub in my car, do a search and you can find the thread. I think you will find that the (2) 15" subs and 2000 watts will be overkill. No matter how much dynamat you put down....it will not be enough. The car/sheetmetal will rattle like crazy.
You can fit 2 15's very easily if you buy decent subwoofers. Your best bet would be to fire them through a hole in the rear deck of the car, firing into the cabin is MUCH louder and cleaner and will save your trunk. I would use 1" birch ply preferrably 19ply this will save weight and will be WAY more rigid than mdf, but you may need to brace the ply with threaded rod or dowels to prevent harmonic vibration from the ply. 2000w RMS is a considerable amount of power you can make do with a 130A alt and second battery in the rear. Install is 90% to be honest...Firing through the rear deck allows it to work like a 4th order this will help with power handling and can present a cleaner sound.
If one is going to use 2K RMS in a metal enclosure and push it; I don't believe u can do enough bracing to prevent vibes. If he's using two 6*9s in the deck -means he will have to cut another hole there. Adding dowel/steel rods will require a lot of bracing to "ridigly" support them. When u consider extra battery, bigger altenator, battery isolator, etc. A lot of trouble unless one is building audio competition vechicle.
I agree 100% my maverick will not be getting a stereo at all, but I was suggesting THE BEST way to do it. If the rear seats folded down like a modern sedan then his idea would be practical. I have done many customer's cars this way (firing through the rear deck) and it always sounds 100x better and really cuts the trunk rattle down. On the vibration subject, you can eliminate most audible vibration by rods or dowels and proper bracing, also elastromeric coating and placing second skin luxury liner on all the adjacent metal surfaces to the enclosure will help them from transferring any resonance. Just suggestions I spent the last 5 years IMMERSED in car audio and I HATE trunk rattle.
if you go that big every thing will raddle i have 2 12" soney explodes pushed by a 1200 watt amp and it broke the sheet metal away from the fram of the trunk lid and the rear speaker deack. so use plenty of supports and foam
Go with 1 single Orion. There some of the best speakers ive ever used. I had one 12inch orion rated at 2,000 rms with a custom box and had it at 1ohm with a 2000 rms kenwood that would make the pixels in the stop lights shake and flicker. It sounded louder than 2 15's coming down the street.
2 15's will fit fine. they will be close together but will work and my plan was to face them towards the front seats, not the trunk. I dont like when it rattles the entire tunk and it sounds like a screw stuck on top of a speaker. Your right as well its all about how you set it up that makes it sound good.
My idea should work fine. You get the mdf wood lay it flat against the metal, where the back seat and the trunk meets. Cut your holes for the speakers and cut the holes in the seats and have them redone, so it looks nice. Then reinstall the back seat, you will be able to see the speakers through the holes in the seat. This way the speakers will be facing behind you and the trunk is the box. I will post pictures when I start the project.
To give you an idea, these are 8's... They fit well, but there's not a lot of "wiggle room." They have rather large magnets, and that creates a problem for the frame. Cutting the frame wasn't something I wanted to do. 10's would probably fit pretty well without cutting, or much cutting. 12's would be a challenge. 15's would take more than a little work and I don't think I would be happy with the results. I know you're probably just looking for crazy power with this setup, but as far as actually sounding good, these subs really get the job done for me, and I didn't cut my seats. I also have a pair of 6's and tweeters in the kick panels, and 3-way 6x9's on the back shelf. It's loud enough to drown out a high compression 351w with 2-chamber race mufflers and dumps at the axle, I can still feel the bass like I'm being punched in the back if I want it that loud, but it sounds good. The thing I like best is that nobody can see it. The subs are hidden utterly, the front speakers are behind factory grilles, and the 6x9's just have very basic, plain grilles. I don't know, maybe none of this is useful to you, maybe we have different goals... I like a balanced system and an understated look, but I know a lot of people just like their stuff visible and loud...
Looks very nice! I really dont want my speakers visible so im a target and people try to steal them. I havent got involved in doing any of this yet so things might change a little bit. As far as the back seats go I would probably cut the holes in the back giving it enough space so the speakers can move and leave the front covered with the same cloth as the seats when there redone so the speakers arent visible but have room to move and breath. Once I get started on this I will post pictures of all the work and a video of how it sounds. The way im doing it no metal on the frame will be cut.
