How do you know it was fuel in the oil? They would mix, so all you can do is smell it. If you had a clear distinct fluid in your oil, that would have to be water. Not trying to insult, but I am curious as to how your engine was running with 1-2 gallons of fuel in the oil.
Its' most likely water/coolant you found in your oil. If you have an intake sealing issue...That could explain the excessive amount of water in the crank case. It could also explain the condensation out the tail pipe. But...If you got 1 to 2 gallons of water/coolant out of the crank case...You would have hydrauliced (sp?)the engine. You probably got a few quarts of water/coolant out of it. At the very least, you should pull the intake and replace the gaskets. Gas in the oil will just make the oil smell like gas, it wont separate from the oil...Your carb may have a gross internal fuel leak or a gross rich condition...These issues will cause fuel to get into the oil. You may want to check that carb out well. Cold starts and short run times with the choke on will also cause fuel to get into the crank case. If your gonna just run the car, let it run for at least a half hour at operating temp, so it cooks off some of the moisture and excess fuel that lingers.
gasoline in the oil I believe its gas in the oil,, there was no water/oil separation in the drain pan and the oil overflowed out of the drain pan,, it took 6 quarts of oil to fill after oil change so it had at least a couple of quarts of something in the oil, and the radiator was only an inch below the cap. I did find a few loose intake bolts and tightened them up replacing the intake/carb gaskets got rid of the vacuum leak/whistle, brought the idle up and let me use the vacuum gauge to adjust the idle mixture... I plan to buy an compression gauge in the near future to see what kind of pressure in the cylinders. the previous owner said there is only a few hundred miles on the engine the engine is noisy because he installed a timing gear set in place of the chain, would this make it noisy? any other suggestions/advice appreciated..
Fuel in the oil will wash the bearings and cylinder walls of lubricant. A quick way to destroy an engine
Sounds like you really need to get to the botom of this before you ruin a motor. Might be time for professional help.
If the engine is stock and/or has a stock oil pan on it...It only holds 5qts with filter, NOT 6qts. You need to pull a qt of oil out or you will have oiling issues which can ruin the engine.
oil pan capacity yea, I thought so too, I put in 5 quarts and started the engine and ran it till my oil pressure gauge went up, then checked the level and it was still 1 quart low.. the engine is definitely not stock. the previous owner said its considered a 3/4 race engine
But does it have a stock capacity oil pan??? If it does, dont put 6qts in it. It may have a high volume pump in it...This will cause it to be a qt low right after shut down since it moves ALOT of oil. Shut it down and let it sit for 5 minutes,then check it.
stuff good idea about the oil pan capacity.. I will check it again after its been off for a while as far as the engine, here are the specs he wrote down: Dart II heads 194/150 Erson 1.6 rockers titanium valves Edelbrock RPM intake cam: 282 duration with .498 lift and 110 degre center Edelbrock timing gears(no chain) Windage tray full MSD 6 AL ignition Hooker Super Comp headers with flow tec collector 4 into into 1 flowmaster mufflers Holly 600cfm double pumper with mech secondaries TCI street fight C4 B&M 2100-2400 torque converter for 9" with 33 spline Morser axles limited slip Auburn unit 3.83 gears I haven't put together a car since the 70's , so can someone tell me what kind of car this is?? Thanks!!!
If it has a windage tray...Yeah, its not a stock capacity pan. As you stated, its probably a 7 Qt pan. That sounds like a pretty healthy set up... If its the stock bottom end...Dont rev it much beyond 6200 RPM...The stock 5/16 rod bolts will fail before anything else does. Do you know if thats a solid cam or hydraulic in there...If its a solid (adjustable valvetrain) with the right bottom end parts the thing will rev to 7000RPM all day long. Once the tune is right on that engine it should be capable of low 13s' at the very least.
its a '92 engine so, I'm sure its a roller cam, I haven't had the valve covers off , but I thinks its not a solid lifter ca
A hyd roller will rev well too. Just gotta make sure the valve springs are up to the task. Titanium valves huh...Wonder if someone planned to put some squeeze to that engine...Unless its titanium spring keepers. Still good, very good.
car info the former owner had an NHRA rule book and was building the car for the strip. (long ago)got the fuel cell in trunk with thick metal firewall , battery in trunk , recirculating fuel system and more goodies!!
