if you are doing a valve job let the machine shop do it,i snapped off all of mine but two and the cost for them to do it wasn't much
If you were to post some pic's I'm sure you would get the perfect answer on how to get them out. I have used Bee's wax on alot of pipe fittings over the years so I know it will get in there. The heat will expand the bolt and the cast iron at different rates, braking the seal so to say. Reddening the cast iron with a torch should free the bolt up but you should also chase the threads after it's out. Let us know how you do ? ( Did you ever see Neil D on shadetree, their's a reason for that )
Some of the bolts are flush- 3 i believe and 3 or 4 are sticking out. The way the bolts are angled downward look like Ill have to remove the head...getting a drill in there wont be easy. Im just hoping the head bolts come out easier. Anything I should be cautious of when removing the head?
Try running a left handed drill bit into the broken stud which will cause it to back out of the hole!
As I mentioned above because of the angle I will not be able to get a drill in the engine bay to properly remove the studs. I have manifold off just in case you were wondering. Seems ill have to remove the head and bring it to a shop. Lets hope these come out easier! Any advice on removing the head? i believe i saw 8 bolts that come straight up and out.
The machine shop will use a vertical mill to remove the bolts and clean the threads. If the threads are damaged (due to the rusting) they can install thread inserts while it is on the mill. If they have to fix somebody elses mess it will be more expensive. Removing a rusted bolt from a head is way different than removing a nut that is rusted to a muffler clamp. Heating and rapidly cooling a head can crack it. You can't heat the head without heating the bolt too - just as you can't heat the bolt without heating the head. Machining the old bolts out is the right way to do it. Only when that is not possible do you try other methods and the best method is welding a nut to the broken bolt and then remove it. There is less chance that you will screw the threads up. Even a bolt that is broken off below flush can have a nut welded to it PROPERLY and turned out - but you have to use the right rod and you have to know how to precision weld. (unless you are very lucky)
Pulling the head should be a piece of cake. I have never had a head bolt break. Do yourself a favor. With the head off....spend the extra dough and have the head gone thru. Have hardened seats put in, new valve guides, seals, etc.
And while you have the manifold ( or the head ) off, it would pay you to replace the freeze plugs! They will now be easy to get at, and they don't cost much.
remove the...rocker arm shaft...first... just torque it back down when reinstalling it... some say to put the...pushrods...back in the same hole...i never do. ...Frank...
Removing the head dont make access to the CORE plugs any easier, and you need a good straight shot at them to get the new ones in, so if you arn't seeing any sings of rust or leaks then i wouldn't mess with them, stick with the task at hand, if you listen to every one here you'll be rebuilding the whole eng. with a big cam and a blower! It is possible to drill out the bolts with out pulling the head, using a 90 degree drill how ever you need experiance and Mavericks dont allow much room so i would recommend removing the head to access them and as a Mechanic with 25 years experiance i have never had a headbolt break on a ford (coming out or going in)
Id like to have the head gone through and new guides.seals, etc but I dont have the money to pay someone to do it. If its an easy task feel free to explain what i need to do. I do have a valve lapping stick and such to redo the seats but ive never used it.
The torch does cause the metal to expand, but the goal of doing so is to break loose the crud and rust holding the threads so that it will come loose
This is something best left to the experts. Requires precise measuring, special tools, etc. Not trying to bring you down....but if you don't have time/money to do it right......do you have time/money to do it over? What is the goal of putting the header on in the first place?
well auto shop said $160 machine shop is $25 a stud. 7 studs so $175. Going to weld some nuts to those sticking out and see if i cant get them loose and pay $75 for the remaining 3. I am putting the header on because the pipe that connected to the manifold was warped and leaked. Figured Id upgrade and put a header set on it. Itll breathe better, give more power (although a i6 200 isnt exactly that powerful anyways), and should give better gas mileage if im not mistaken.
ive had really good results with welding nuts on rusted broken bolts. the heat of the weld usually loosens the rust that is sizing the bolt in the hole then you have a new hex head to put your wrench on. you can even build weld on top of bolts that are broken flush to the head so you can then put the over the bolt and weld it.
