So... am I tearing down my block and building from scratch then? From junkyard parts btw. I can't afford stuff that's newer than new to me. Guess I should better say, I don't really know whats totally involved in swapping the cam. I'm not going this alone. I've got the trusty family backyard mechanic to point and holler. But, I want to know what I'm getting into beforehand to buy everything.
To change your roller cam, you'll need is the new (to you) roller cam you're replacing the cam you now have in the motor. It would be a good idea to install new pushrods too, as the roller pushrods do not spin in service and tend to wear to a wedge shape on the rocker ends. New pushrods run about $35-40 a set. You will also need new gaskets (valve cover, intake, timing cover, waterpump) You will need to remove the intake, waterpump (and any accessories necessary to do this) and timing cover. Your engine should have a one piece oil pan gasket and as long as you're careful, it should survive the operation. It would also be good to change the front seal in the timing cover while you've got it off. A new timing set may also be needed, depending on what set you've got now and how much the chain has stretched. If you don;t already have a double row, roller chain timing set, it would also be an excellant idea to install one, a new set runs about $30 from the local parts house, just ask for a timing set for an 87-95 Mustang 5.0. When you go to install the roller lifter retainer in the engine valley, use lock tite on the bolt threads and do not use excessive force to tighten them, these are only 1/4" NC thread bolts and can be easily twisted in two.
So when I find the right junkyard candidate I want: intake manifold - upper & lower throttle body timing chain cover valve cover waterpump roller cam then I want to buy: lifters? pushrods missing anything? also suppose I should take the heads and headers yea?
Get as much of the engine wiring harness as they will let you have, fuse box included for either the Explorer or the Bronco. It will make rewiring alot easier. Ford also wired the PCM(computer) in the engine compartment for those vehicles, so taking the factory plug and PCM will be to your advantage. Write down the VIN and as much other vehicle data as you can from the door plate. It will also make finding parts less painful.
I don't have much time to chat because I'm always at work it seems but here is a picture of mine. my dad is also a member on here and he will have great knowledge on this topic. I believe his user name is steven harris.
If I remember right, the 93 will be a flat tappet cam not a roller so I would grab the lifter retainer from the Exploder engine. I may be off on this but I would think you could just re use the lifters from the donor as well, just make sure to mark them and drop them in the same holes on your engine. For gaskets I bought a full set from sirspeedy on ebay for under $60.
You can skip the Explorer timing cover and waterpump, the FEAD the Bronco has will do. The Explorer setup is however about an inch and a half shorter. Also really don't need the Explorer valve covers, unless you like black painted plain steel double wall valve covers (their only benefit is they quieten the rocker noise) You also won't need the lifters, you can use yours, but you may want to grab them just to have a spare set. I would only grab the heads if they're the plain GT40 heads (three vertical bars on the ends and "GT" cast in one corner next to the valve cover rail) All this stuff can also be found on Mercury Mountaineers with the 5.0 too, same truck, same motor for both
Starting to think I just want to pull the whole engine and bring it home. Maybe the bronco will live a little longer.
I thought the Bronco's didn't get roller cams until 94 when they went to mass air on the automatic equipped vehicles. If that's the case then he will need the lifters.
I would; it would be better to deal with this in the comfort of your garage rather than field conditions.
All the vans, pickups and Broncos got roller cams starting with the 92 model year. In 94 they got an upgrade to the F4TE roller, which was later used in the Explorer/Mountaineer 5.0 til the end. The 91-93 is the "base roller" used in the Crown Vic/Towncar/Marquis 5.0. There's about a 25 HP difference in the two.
So were the early truck roller cams the 302 firing order? The reason I ask is I know the 94 with autos were MAF and everything I have seen on the SD trucks lists the 302 firing order where the MAF shows the HO/351W firing order. Just looking to clarify my muddy knowledge of late model 5.0's.
Yes, the base roller uses the older firing order. But MAF isn't an indicator of what cam it is. The F4TE was used with both systems.
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