Hey everyone. So my ignition switch went out, and in my search for the replacement, well, I can't find it at all! I have a 70 Maverick with the 200 and the column-mounted switch. Any pointers at all would be appreciated. As a side note, all of the ones that Autozone, Napa, et cetera are selling are cylindrical and therefore totally not what I need. In other words, help! This car is my DD too, so this is a real pain.
There is the part you turn with the key and the ignition switch itself which is also inside the column. Both are replaceable and available from Auto Krafters or a Mustang parts place. 1970 is a tricky year for ordering, as you will see both the locking column and the dash mounted ignitions listed.
In my Oreillys catalog we list a Column mounted or dash mounted option for the lock cylinder. But for the Electric switch we only list the dash mounted for 1970, ya that is wrong, bad data from the vendors. For the Column mounted electric switch ask for one for a 71. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...n+switch_1132096_3571&keyword=ignition+switch
It is very possible that the 71 switch will need 1 of the wires moved to work in a 70. According to the parts book, the Mustang is this way so it might be the same with the Maverick. Ford used the spade clips that are easy to unlock and move into a different slot on the plugs. Just make sure the wires on the new switch duplicate what you take out.
Could be why nobody offers a 70 column mounted switch, only used half a year or so. Sounds easy enough to make the 71 switch work.
Yes, 70's are fun to order parts for. That wiring change is only a maybe, as I see the switch you posted is good for 70 Mustangs too. If you look at Mustangs Unlimited, they have a 71-73 switch and mention a possible wire change for 70 cars.
Yep, the 70 switches are unique and the connector on them is different, too. A couple years ago I thought mine was going bad, ends up I just needed to adjust it.
Thanks for confirming that. It would be neat to see what both switches look like side by side and what needs to be done to the wiring to make a parts store replacement for a 71 work.
Here's for a 70, Maverick, Mustang and Cougar used the same switch. Note the gray connector, later switches had black connectors and I believe the body of the 70 switch is physically longer than later switches. http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-1970-FO...Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item519b6ae911
This is indeed a one year only switch that fits 1970 Cougar and Mustang, as well as a partial year of the 1970 model Maverick. There is a possibility that it will be picked up as a part to be reproduced in the near future. I sent a sample to the company that is reproducing the 1971 and newer switch for the Cougar and Mustang. I have a difficult time finding used switches and they sell nearly as soon as we get one in stock. Here is my listing.
Those shown for the 70's look very much like my 74. I would take your switch to the auto parts and compare it with one for the later years. I would think you would be able to mount it by just clipping off your plug and crimp connecting it on the new switch. Of course if your plug is bad, this won't help you! You may also be able to push all the pins out and put them into your plug. I'd just draw a diagram of the original so you can put them back, if you had to. The newer switch may have different positions for the wiring placements, but with a 12V source and a test light, it shouldn't be too hard to figure out. The main thing is that it will physically replace your old one. Like I said, put them side by side and you'll be able to tell. Considering it's $22.95 at Advance Auto Parts, I'd do a little labor work before I'd pay over a hundred bucks for a switch!
Do you know for sure that it's "out"? As mentioned, I thought mine went bad, too, but it just needed adjusted.
I'm almost sure that it was going or has gone out, and if it's not, it is not a bad thing to replace in a mostly-original 41-year-old car! I found it for $60 at Autokrafters, and am currently waiting on it. And in case you're curious, the reasons for which I have diagnosed the problem as the switch are as follows: 1. It died on the road; 2. The battery voltage drops from mid-12s to mid-5s when the key is switched from off to on, and accessories are all dim, including the recently-activated ALT dummy light, and the battery reads enough voltage to crank with the key off; 3. The alternator is new (well, half a year old), and I made sure the grounds and connections were all sound, and as such don't believe that to be the dieing-on-the-road cause (and I should point out, I had this exact problem a half-year ago until I replaced the alternator and voltage regulator and harness). All this points to the switch (or bad battery, I guess) to me. However, I'm going to go through all the alternator/regulator wiring to make sure it's all solid, and get the battery tested and whatnot for safe measure. Do these things I listed ring any bells for anyone else, other than the ones they rang for me?
nothing points to the switch to me. First sign of a bad switch is usually it wont crank the starter because thats the last contact on the switch. Everything you listed makes me belive a bad charging system or dead cell in the battery. those should be the first things to have actually tested when you have a problem like described.
You may very well be right- I'm getting the battery checked after work, and charged if needed. This could just be a case of overthinking the situation. I hope it is!
