Wow! That's MUCH cheaper than I expected. Does anyone know of a good transmission shop around the DFW area that does good cheap work like this? I live just north of McKinney but work in Plano. I'll drive for a price like that! On a side note: Does this forum have a place where we can list good shops that do good work at reasonable prices? Could be easy to add. Have file locations for State/City. Might get to be really large though for the server. Would be handy I think.
The guy is pulling your leg, any trans shop worth walking into has the tools to pull and replace that bushing with the tail housing on the trans. Its easier that way, the tool rests on the trans shaft, just like a normal puller, three fingers pull the bushing out as the tool is tightened.
So is it better to pull the old bushing out, or push it in with a new bearing as 71gold suggested? I can probably add a new bearing, but I have no way to remove the old one. For all I know at this point, that bushing may be fine and it could be something completely different, like the u-joints or a driveshaft weight. I'm basically just shooting in the dark so far.
correct...it should take longer to pull and install driveshaft than install a bushing and seal...:Handshake mark your driveshaft so it can be put back the same way it came out, everyone doesn't do this...
Only problem with this is the old bushing is now flopping around inside the tailhousing, possibly eating away at the housing and speedometer cable gear.
Pull the tailhousing and do it the right way. No special tools are needed. When you pull the housing off, you will be able to look inside and see how the old bushing is oriented
Pushing the old bushing in with the new one won't hurt anything, you may hear a slight metal clinking sound when driving show, but why don't you pull your drive shaft and see whats the problem.
nope...just stays on the shaft...no flopping...no eating anything. kinda like that plastic ball the factory pushes down into the transmission pan when they install the dipstick...
Maybe we are concentrating on the wrong end to solve his clunking issue, check the pinion yoke for slop. Like others have said the visible wear on the yoke is normal, as your suspension moves up and down the yoke slides in and out of the tail housing. If I were in your shoes I would replace the u-joints, put just the yoke into the trans and check for slop then check to make sure the pinion is solid with no slop (in or out as well as up and down).
Bushing puller The bushing pullers do exist. I have several of them. There are two styles, one style slips inside the bushing until the teeth pop out once past. A screw in the back pushes on the back of the tailshaft until the entire bushing is pulled out. The other style threads into the bushing until you have sufficient bite to pull it out with a similar bolt that pushes on the tailshaft. I do not have any of them to take a pic, but I do have a similar tool for boat bushings that I can hopefully attach a pic.
Here is the similar tool. The ones for automobiles usually have a hex shaped end instead of the long T handles that would hit the floor of the car. http://mmb.maverick.to/gallery/showimage.php?i=15426&c=8 Also just noticed this thread: http://www.mmb.maverick.to/showthread.php?t=73682&highlight=tailshaft+housing+bushing
