Hey guys just getting back into my maverick, got a few q's. How much weight would fiberglass front and rear bumpers save me? Is the up22.com website a good place for these? I am going to paint the bumpers anyways so that might be much easier. Does anyone happen to know if the SVO aluminum heads I picked up for my motor build will work with regular headers? Has anyone weighed the dash in their maverick? Back seat? Where can I get the headlight trim bezels, both mine have a few dings, so I may try to solder fill them since they will be painted soon. New ones would save time. Does anyone have any tips on an engine bolt kit? Like any specific brand you guys use? Head bolts vs studs? How do I know if my c4 is small bellhousing or large? I have 3 flexplates from 302's what are the differences? I do not recall which one came from my block, does the weight affect this? Things I am also looking for as a side note to finish my project, Single plane rpm air gap or equiv. Holley 650dp with mech sec High stall converter for c4 trans...or maybe a solid trans Ignition related components, or setup, as my coil is dead and distributor is now dead due to being outside for 4 months. Hope to get some help from ya'll, everyone was very helpful previously. I have searched for the above stuff online, but mostly get threads telling people to search *sigh* damn internets.
I have a couple sets of headlight bezels. I ll check them out and see about what it will take to ship them.
You should break up your questions into several threads as the likelyhood of getting answers will be much higher. Please also create a separate thread in the classifieds for the parts you are looking for.
The dash doesn't weigh much empty ... shipped one .... 12 lbs including box and no pad. No gauges, etc, just stripped. I would focus weight savings on aluminum heads and intake (they make power, too, most bang for the money invested), and if anything else, get weight off the front of the car. Mavs are light, but nose-heavy. Keeping weight on the back tires will help the balance of the car. The early thin bumpers don't weigh much. Fiberglass would be OK if you couldn't find original. You could swiss-cheese the braces to save some weight. Front fenders are light too. I doubt fiberglass would do much for you. The most you will save going with a fiberglass hood that is built to last is about 20 lbs (unless you go with a pin on race-only version). Stock Comet hood weighs right at 50 lbs, a better fiberglass one was 28 IIRC. Moving the battery to the trunk is typically the equivalent of moving the engine back 10% of the wheelbase in most cars.
I had those bumpers on my car........took them off and gave them to a friend for his street/race car. As for saving 60lbs like the add says, well, maybe......mainly because you only need two braces in the front to attach the plastic bumper. I would think a fiberglass hood would save more weight than the bumpers. Yes, that site is where the bumpers on my car came from. Which SVO heads do you have? When you talk about the back seat, are you just going to race this car or will it be a street/strip car? As for the engine bolt/stud kit, as JoeDirt said ARP is the best and studs give you a better torque/clamping force than bolts do, but if you motor is fairly stock...........your CR is not above 11:1 and you don't use a blower or turbo...........bolts will be fine. Same goes for the heads, although I prefer studs because of what I said above. Again, JoeDirt made an excellent point......unless you motor is pretty much stock................you need to talk to a trans/converter company and give them all the info on your setup so they can taylor make a converter that will work with your setup.............off the shelf stuff is just a guess. Need more information on your motor/trans/rearend and what you want to do with your car...................IMHO
Thanks for the replies. I have aluminum heads and intake (finally) i will start a thread when i begin assembly. I was hoping the bumpers were megaweight like the big bumpers on my pinto. The battery is already in the trunk. I was hoping the dash was heavy as it would give me an excuse to go roll cage and full aluminum dash on her. Maybe in the future . Let me know on the headlight bezels, i was unsure if the lead idea would work to fill dings in the trim. Thanks so far everyone. I cant wait for more parts to come in. With a msd distributor do they require those ugly square coils vs a cyln. One? What the heck is the diff?
The "Square Ugly" coil????????? Are you talking about the #8201??????? I have one because I've got the 7AL-3, but if you have a stand alone MSD distributor or use a 6AL box, MSD makes a regular one you can use. When you mention something you need to be a little more specific as to what you have and what you are doing with it.................IMHO
They are the svo/gt40 based heads I will have the part number next week when theyre back from the machine shop. Motor is a 30 over 86 302 roller motor, with cast speed pro 10.5-1 pistons. The heads i think are 64cc but have been resurfaced. As for intake I have not purchased one yet, but i was quite set on a performer air gap, partially due to looks. For a carb i have a edelbrock 600 iirc, electric choke vaccum sec. This will be replaced with a 650 holley dp down the road. I also have proform roller rockers 1.7 ratio Car has a rebuilt c4 by previous owner that leaks like a sob. It will need to be overhauled. It functions fine shifts harsh/firm but did not slip just leaked. Rear end is a 8" open with 2.70 gears. I plan to go to 4.10s, amd a cheap locker solution. I do not have a cam as i plan to measure the cc of the head before i order one. It will be my weekend or cruise night car. It was my driver before the motor died. It also has only alternator and water pump, no other assesories and only power front disc brakes. Also i had a stock style distributor and a bad coil. So I will be replacing the ignition system and am open to options.
More information gathering quest today. I counted 165 tooth on the flywheel (give or take a tooth or so as i was interrupted 3x during the 1 minute process) Since I have a large bellhousing trans c4 what torque converter size should it have? I see it listed that you can get several different sizes?
The flexplate that came on my 302/C4 in my Comet originally was 157 tooth. IIRC, 164 tooth (probably what you have there) was the other version out at the time. I believe the 157 tooth size and matching dust cover positions the starter in tighter. You have to match the balance weight to the motor you are using ... there are early and late differences in 302s.
Okay, both motors are 86 302 the one that came with the car that was bad, and the new one with new bearings and sealed power cast pistons. I planned on using the stock 302 balancer, and my flywheel from the last motor, it was also a 86 302 (bad luck) so should be the same balance on the flywheel. (just speculating here) The previous motor was all stock but failed due to the PO installing a HG on backwards and then me driving it on the freeway for 2 hours. Even with destroyed bearings, the motor ran good and sounded good, just had low oil pressure.
