I was thinking about my swap earlier and was trying to figure out some way of taking out the almost .25" end play without using spacers. I think I came up with a solution. Rather than use a spacer, why not just install a wider bearing? I found bearing 5207RS has the same OD and ID but is .22" wider. Think it would work?
yes... it will stick out of the axle tube that much more... what is the...speed...load rating...on that...5207RS? http://www.shkdbearings.com/bearings-shop-44082-Koyo.html found this... Application Electric Motors, Welding Equipment page #34... http://www.houstonbearing.com/pdf/peer-ball-bearings.pdf
You would also need to shim the bearing retainer out 0.22". And is there 0.22" of axle spline left that can be pulled from the side gears? Just thinking out loud too help you foresee any problems...
this measurement should be good...with the spacer on the inside of the bearing to axle hub you would have the same situation.
what you are...filling... is the difference between the disc brake bracket and bearing...the bearing doesn't stick outside the bracket...being the need for the spacer.
Then maybe I am confused... which is probably true since Frank has done just about every disc brake swap. If he adds width to the bearing, which bottoms out in the end of the tube, how would the bearing retainer fit? The disc brake brackets I made were plunged out for the bearing (the depth of the plunge was measured from how far the bearing stuck out from the tube). EDIT: I may have called the bearing retainer plate the bearing retainer, sorry about that.
You're right. I was thinking this would take up the gap between the bearing and retainer plate, but it won't.
the bearing retainer plate mounts flush with the...disc brake bracket, the bearing sits resessed inside the brake bracket...that recess depth is what you are trying to eliminate with spacer/wider bearing. ......
So, if you install disc brakes, you're gonna need a spacer the outside size of the bearing, to keep the axle from moving 1/4" in and out? Or a wider bearing to fill the gap? Which side of the stock bearing would you put the spacer, inside or outside? Or does it matter just as long as the bearing and axle don't move in and out? Just trying to get a little clarity for my muddy head. Hope to do this swap later on.....
NOPE...someone came on here selling...spacers, he said you need them. I (Jeff, Earl, Tim) don't use them. our thinking...the 8.8 the disc brake bracket came off of had C-clips holding the axle in. if you look whan you remove the clips you have to push the axle in to get the clip out... this is the "play" the guy selling the spacers said you have to take up...the 8.8 comes from the factory with this play... Earl and I have ran thes brakes for about 4 years without any problems... ...Frank...
wow this thread is confusing. if you put explorer disk brakes on a 8" or 9" you will need the spacer. the thickness of the backing plate of the disk brakes needs to be compensated for. if you put a thicker bearing on as asked, this will move the axle out that extra thickness. that means that the splines will loose that much engagement and the rotor will be pushed out that much further. the caliper slides may not allow for the rotor to be moved that far out. if you leave the spacer out, the axle will be able to move back and forth in the housing. that means the wheel will be moving in and out. the thing mentioned about 8.8s using c clips and require the in and out motion is not correct. the 8.8 uses a cross shaft that sandwiches the c clips in the axle and side gear. the cross shaft will remove all in and out play of the axle. also note that on an 8.8 the brake backing plate has no effect on the axle retention due to them being c clip retained not bearing retained. as for the 3 board members not running the spacers, i suspect that they can move the wheels in and out that 1/4" and when turning the axles are shifting back and forth. if they are not moving then then something is binding. this constant sliding will cause wear. i suspect most this wear will happen to the housing end. also it could damage the axle splines and wear them out. currie sells the spacers you need at this link http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/productsRE.aspx?id=3044 the price is cheap enough to not bother trying to make your own or buying some ebay over priced ones. they also have some that are in two halves that have a groove to receive an o ring around the outer circumference to hold them together so you dont even have to replace the axle bearing to put them on.
oh and one last thing. you may find that the explorer 8.8s have some in and out axle play even before you pull the cross shaft. this is because the clutch plates in the limited slip are worn out. when they are new there should be no perceivable in and out play on the axles. but hay what do i know about this stuff, i may be wrong and may be willing to admit it.
