Dont come over here iether nuthin here but desert, heat, Drug Smugglers, Aliens and Old People. Keep heading West.
Oh don't worry about me moving there I worked down there for about 6 months and trust me it wasn't worth it...I was more then happy that job was done. My problem is everyone keeps leaving there and moving everywhere... Heck we have so many transplants down in the salt lake area trying too make it just like the San Bernardino valley I keep wondering if Arnold is going too show up driving his hummer.
there is one more thing I'm trying to figure out but probably best to ask my engine builder...my dilemma is that a 351 block, especially a dart block is gonna weigh down my car a lot in the front....I could go with a 302 dart block but I think it's gonna be so much harder to reach my HP goals with a 331. Apparently a 347 isn't all too good for turning on high boost. I could go with an aluminum block but don't know what the downsides are for daily driving with an aluminum block.
The only thing you have to worry about with aluminum heads and aluminum blocks is corrosion..................not neccessarily from the outside, but from the inside. I had a friend with a very nice drag boat.......the boat had an original L88 all aluminum motor. The boat was never in any salt water and he never drained the water or used used a low-silicate type of anti-freeze. He developed a water leak at the intake and when we took the heads off they were just about corroded away............he spend a lot of money having the heads welded back up and machined...........................so, find and use a very low-silicate anti-freeze................this will build up a thin layer of aluminum oxide which should give you protection for a lot of years, and although some people call this extreme..................every now and then check the Ph of your water/anti-freez solution...............this will give you an indication of when to change it.................and don't just use distilled water. One last thing is to make sure you have the best possible ground on your electrical system................as electricity through aluminum causes corrosion. Other than the weight savings is another plus with the aluminum block....other than price............is that they uses pressed in steel sleeves in the cylinders and they can be replaced. Also, there are initial procedures to be following during the first machining process.................hopefully your machinest has had experience with aluminum motors...................IMHO
sounds like a lotta work but a good option. would it be a lotta work to set the engine further back? would it even help with weight distribution.
I know when I first got my Maverick on the scales it was almost 50/50, but that was with over 100lbs of lead in the rear crossmember. I believe you could do this with your car also............and although I'm not sure where your car is now I'd guess somewhere around 60% front and 40% rear. Now with that said it almost always helps to get the engine back and down...........in the Maverick I could see this costing $1000's of dollars if you had to have it done and then you wouldn't be able to race in those stock type classes, kind of the same as shaving the towers or putting a towerless front end with MII/MIII suspension on. If I was going to do that I'd take the body and put it on a tube frame, and then be able to adjust the motor either back or forward..............to find the perfect balance......................................IMHO
Hey did you get your car done with the new parts id love to see some pics,are you going to the roundup in kentucky. .......
Then don't do either one. Use the big bore FRPP 302 block and go 4.100" on the bore with a 3.25" stroke (343"). You can use the longer 5.400" rod so the side loading on the piston and walls is much more stable.
yea that's a pretty good idea. I would be running 91 octane on the street and could either do 112 race gas for the track or temp faith with a good water/methanol injection system.
